Installing a lock on a door: how to do it yourself? How to embed a lock into an interior door with your own hands? How to cut a lock for an interior door

Do you want to have your own space and be sure that no one will break into it? Then installing a lock on your interior door is the only right decision for you. You can do this yourself, without resorting to outside help. It is only important to choose the right accessories. It must be of high quality, match the interior in shape, color and design.

Choosing a lock for an interior door

Based on function and design, there are several types of door locks:

• regular latch or halyard lock;
• latch with lock;
• mortise;
• magnetic;
• overhead;
• latch;
• latch;
• level

This is the most primitive type of lock, which is used in almost all interior doors. It is a simple design consisting of a cylinder and a plastic or metal tongue. Often such a mechanism is mounted together with a handle that controls the tongue.

The latch is the simplest mechanism installed on interior doors

The purpose of a halyard lock is to keep the door closed. A conventional latch is simple, reliable in operation, and characterized by a wide range of designs. However, due to the overly simple mechanism, it has not found widespread use.

Locking latch. It is considered a variation of a regular latch, which is equipped with an additional latch. It blocks the movement of the handle. There are two types: lever and push-button. The first type is more practical and reliable. A push-button lock is no worse, but it can cause such an unpleasant situation as accidentally slamming the door.

The latch with a lock has a number of advantages: simple installation, simple design, wide selection of models. The disadvantage of this type of lock is its weak locking mechanism.

When purchasing a product, pay attention to whether the movements of the tongue are smooth and whether the spring returns it inside the door.

It was popularly called a mechanism with a key cylinder. Outwardly, it is similar to a lock for street doors, but has a simpler design. The device includes a cylinder and a lock block.

Mortise locks are reliable and durable

There are two types of cylinder: “key-key” and “key-turner”. The first is installed if the lock is used occasionally. The second, on the contrary, is suitable for more frequent use.

Mortise locks are used to close bedrooms, offices, and storage rooms. They reliably protect against penetration, are durable, and rarely break. If we talk about the disadvantages of the device, then this includes the complexity of installation and the dependence of the device parameters on the thickness of the door.

If you can afford to splurge, then this type of lock is for you. It is intended primarily for rooms where it should be as quiet as possible: bedrooms, children's rooms, offices.

The magnetic lock is quiet, but its cost is quite high

Silent operation is ensured due to its design, consisting of a crossbar, a strike plate, a magnet, and a case for the magnet. The bolt is attracted to a strike plate with a magnet, which is located on the box.

Along with the advantages of the product, there are disadvantages. Firstly, this is the impressive cost of the castle. Secondly, the lock case is not very compact in size, which is why it looks bulky.

Rim lock. Products of this type can rightfully be called a rarity. However, despite this, the demand for it has not fallen to this day due to the simplicity of the mechanism and uncomplicated installation.

Current models boast a comfortable body. The device is mounted on the inside or outside of the door, thereby providing protection against unexpected entry.

The original purpose of the lock was to secure one of the double doors. Currently, it is installed mainly in the bathroom and toilet.

Espagnolette installed in bathrooms

The operating principle of this product is so simple that even a small child can handle it. Its installation does not require special knowledge and experience.

Latch. This is the simplest type of castle. A latch is a metal plate with a retractable lever. It is installed as a main or auxiliary lock.

The mechanism has become widespread due to its high degree of reliability and protection. It is used for both street and interior doors.

To fix the bolt in the mechanism, plates (levers) with grooves of various shapes are used.

Level lock has a high degree of security

Each insert has a corresponding key bit profile. The lock will open only when the levers are in the correct position and the groove is free for the bolt to pass through.

If you have made your choice in favor of a stylish but simple lock, you can get to work.

Tools and materials

To install the mechanism you will need the following materials:

• handles of any shape (round, in the shape of the letter “G”) – 2 pieces;
• cylinder mechanism with spring;
• fastening screws that connect the cylinder mechanisms;
• crossbars;
• sockets for closing cylinder devices – 2 pieces.

In addition to materials, the work requires a small set of tools:

• a simple pencil;
• roulette;
• drill;
• office knife;
• chisels at 0.1 and 0.2 cm;
• feather drill 2.3 cm;
• drill 0.2 cm;
• crown 5.4 or 5 cm based on the thickness of the door;
• masking tape;
• hammer.

If you don’t have any of the listed tools at home, you will have to buy more. Their cost is low, and they are always useful on the farm.

Lock installation

Installing the mechanism yourself will not be difficult. You just need to forget about the rush and be attentive enough. The success of the business depends on many factors, including the type of door.

The easiest way is to insert the lock into a piece of wood. It will be more difficult with a product made from MDF, since it already requires skills and knowledge. Therefore, in this case, it is better not to take risks, but to call for help from a master of his craft..

Otherwise, poorly performed work will lead to damage to the mechanism, which will require it to be repaired or even require a complete replacement of the product.

Preparatory stage

Marking is the initial step towards installing a lock. The first thing to do is to prevent possible damage to the door.

The lock is mounted at a distance of about 1 m from the floor

For this purpose, measure a distance on the canvas of 0.9 - 1.1 m from the floor covering - this is the location of the lock. Then apply masking tape in that place to the end and surface of the door. This procedure will not only protect your product from scratches, but will also make it easier to take measurements.

The template is sold with a lock included in the set. It allows you to accurately apply marks indicating the position of the holes. To do this, fold the stencil along the fold line and attach it to the end. Then use a self-tapping screw to mark the centers of the holes on the end and on the flat surface of the canvas.

Making holes for the handle and lock mechanism

After applying the markings, proceed to the following stages of work:

Mortising a lock with a router

A small vertical machine is called a milling machine. It is easy enough to use, so even a beginner can operate it. To embed a lock into an interior door using a machine with your own hands, you must:

• Place the canvas perpendicularly on its side and secure it with a slipway.
• Measure and mark for the tongue.
• Place the lock on the sash so that the marked line runs clearly in the middle of the recess made under the tongue. Trace the body of the product with a pencil, as well as the bar along the upper and lower borders.
• Draw straight lines on the end of the canvas. Use a square if necessary.
• Use the machine to select the opening for the lock.
• Change the cutter in the machine, based on the dimensions of the plank, and adjust the depth required for its thickness. Make a notch in the center.
• Make a socket for the lock case. To do this, draw a straight line in the middle of the marking.
• Drill holes on the resulting line with a drill. The wood that remains is removed with a hammer and chisel.

The opening for the lock can be made with a router

Thus, an opening for the lock was created. To check if everything is done correctly, insert the device into the seat.

Mortise a lock without a cutter

The absence of a cutter is not a reason to put off installing a lock until better times. To perform the installation, the most common tools that can be found in any home are suitable.

Although it should be noted that there are cases when you cannot cope without a professional machine. For example, installing a lock with a latch.

Mechanism insert with cylinder

Sometimes a lock is installed on a door that already has a handle. It is for such situations that mechanisms with a larva are designed. They have the shape of a rectangle, so this work will seem overwhelming for a self-taught master.

Locks with a cylinder are mounted in doors with an installed handle

However, you don't need any tools or skills. Only after trying, you will learn how easy it is to insert a lock with a cylinder into a wooden door.

To do this, find a place for the lock (above or under the handle) and undertake the following points:

• On the end part, draw a center line where the mechanism is mounted.
• Attach the lock and make marks indicating the height of the product.
• Drill holes along the center line with a small distance between them.
• Using a drill, remove the jumpers between the holes and make a neat socket that matches the size of the lock.
• Place the mechanism in the resulting opening, secure it with self-tapping screws. Using a utility knife, mark and cut out the perimeter of the locking plate to approximately the same thickness as the locking plate itself.
• Remove the mechanism and use chisels to make an opening for the device.
• Place the lock against a flat surface of the canvas and mark the location of the cylinder. Then outline the larva. Do the same on the back side of the door.
• Drill a hole for the larva. In order for the device to fit in freely, you need to go slightly beyond the contours of the markings.
• Place the lock and screw it with self-tapping screws, the holes for which should have been made in advance.
• Attach the cylinder and check how the mechanism functions. Place linings on it using self-tapping screws as decoration.

Installation of the lock mate

This is the final moment of installing the locking mechanism. To install the response part, follow these steps:

1. Close the door and draw two lines on the opening, the distance between which corresponds to the size of the lock latch.
2. Measure how far the beginning of the latch is from the corner of the door.
3. Measure exactly the same distance on the opening - this is the beginning of the recess.
4. If you are going to recess the counterpart in the jamb, then install it in place and trace it with a pencil along the inner and outer contour. If not, then outline only the inner one.
5. Before installing the answer, use a tool to make indentations for the tongue and screws.
6. Install the striker and close the doors. If excess play occurs, eliminate it by bending the tongue on the response.

The lock mate is secured with self-tapping screws

Thus, you have come to the finish line. Installing a new lock or replacing an old one is not a very complicated process, but it requires care. When changing the previous mechanism, make sure once again that reinstallation is advisable. After all, the problem can sometimes be solved by simply adjusting the device.

Coming home, every person wants to feel completely protected from negativity, especially that hovering in the open spaces of the streets. He calms down as soon as he finds himself behind a high-quality, reliable door, equipped with a good, strong lock.

Installing a lock on a door separating the home space from the outside world is a very complex and very responsible process that does not accept inaccuracies and haste. Here every little thing and detail takes on special importance. However, if you scrupulously follow the correct technological process and show extreme care, such work can be done by a completely ordinary person who does not have highly specialized knowledge or skills.

Where to start installing a door lock with your own hands?

It is necessary to clearly decide where to start and how to competently begin installing locking devices on the door. First you need to choose a lock option, which is not so easy to do. On today's market you can find a wide range of imported and domestic samples, differing in their quality characteristics and price indicators.

Watch the video on how to install a lock on a door with your own hands

The purchase of a specific model directly depends on numerous components, the most significant of which are operating conditions and pricing policy. Although, in this situation there is no need to strive to get excessively cheap, since such savings are not justified in practice.

It is more advisable to spend some money one day and buy an expensive, but high-quality and reliable lock. Otherwise, you will have to regularly spend time and money on purchasing cheap products that have only one advantage - a low price.

Types of door locks

Today in construction markets you can find three popular types of locks suitable for use on doors (entrance doors).

1. Padlocks– are primarily used for locking gates and large doors located on hangars or garages, all kinds of sheds, etc. This type of locking device is not popular for closing doors in residential buildings or apartments. For this reason, they will not be subject to further consideration.

2. Rim locks– very simple to install, but well-preserving locking structures. Such locks are locked externally with a special key, and on the inside of the door with a revolving handle, with the additional use of a metal chain for safety.

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3. Mortise locks- a particularly common option, characterized by better external aesthetics and greater installation complexity. Such mechanisms do not interfere with the attractive appearance of the door leaf. In terms of reliability, they are somewhat superior to their overhead counterparts.

Each of the presented types of locks has its own disadvantages and advantages. However, none of the options, even the most reliable and expensive, can guarantee good protection of a house (apartment) in the event of illiterate or careless installation.

Attention! To fully ensure the safety of your own home and your family when installing a door lock yourself, you must strictly follow the rules and technical principles of a competent sequence of work!

Required set of tools

To minimize the time spent on installing a lock, you will need a pre-prepared set of necessary tools. To perform such work there is no need to buy any expensive, special equipment. Usually, everything you need is present in every home.

To install the lock you will need:

- hammer (mallet);

— electric drill with a set of drills of different diameters;

- chisel and chisel;

- tape measure and “hard” ruler;

- square and pencil.

Explanation! Installation of locking mechanisms in a metal door is quite specific and differs significantly in the complexity of the process. Because of this, this installation will not be analyzed in this article!

Installing a mortise lock

Let's consider the installation of a mortise lock in a wooden entrance door.

Mortise types of locks received this name due to the fact that their entire base is completely immersed in the solid door (wooden) leaf. This provides a fairly reliable degree of protection against all kinds of intruders.

1. Preparation

Before working manipulations begin, the door must be fixed so that the door can be freely approached from all sides, and the structure itself must not move in any way. This installation will allow for accurate marking and carry out the necessary installation steps with optimal quality and accuracy. Installing a locking mechanism in a door located between adjacent rooms is no different in technological nuances from installing a lock in the front door.

2. Cutting a groove for the lock body

The initial stage of work consists of cutting out a groove cavity directly under the “body” of the lock. Before this, it is necessary to attach the back surface of the prepared lock to the end surface of the door, which is supposed to be deepened into the door and trace its outline with a pencil.

Then, you should begin sampling the nest. First, using an electric drill, many channels are drilled within the markings.

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Upon completion of drilling, it is necessary to level the internal surfaces of the socket. This leveling is done with a chisel and chisel. It is important to control the evenness of insertion of the lock. There should be no distortions or displacements.

Advice! It should be taken into account that there is no need to simultaneously drill the nest to its full depth into the wooden base. It’s better to move 1 cm deep!

After completing the selection of the nest, you need to test placing the “body” of the lock into the groove made. If it fits in freely, then you can begin the next stage - cutting out a niche for the front plate of the lock. It is necessary to attach the lock to the corresponding place on the edge of the door and trace the outline of the strip. Then, using a chisel and chisel, the required depth of wood is selected so that the outer plank is placed flush with the end of the wooden door leaf.

3. Cutting a hole for the locking mechanism

Manipulations for inserting the lock continue, and the next procedure will be the installation of the locking structure of the lock. For this purpose, a lock is applied to the door surface, taking into account the adjustment for the thickness of the outer strip. The exact locations for drilling are marked. The channels are carefully drilled out using a fine-diameter drill, and then finishing is done with a chisel.

Clue! As an alternative, you can use a thick-diameter drill. They can create holes for mounting lock cylinders in 2-3 passes. You need to work carefully here, otherwise it’s easy to ruin the wooden door!

Do not forget about drilling additional holes if you are installing a lock with handles and an additional latch. A through-hole will need to be drilled to accommodate the rod that connects the handles, screws, and latching tab switch. If you make the slightest error during assembly and installation, the defect will quickly appear, for example, the “tongue” will be blocked behind the outer lock bar.

Once all the manipulations are completed, all that remains is to place the lock in the prepared niche and secure it with screws or self-tapping screws.

Useful point! If you use mounting screws, you should first drill thin holes-channels to facilitate the tightening process!

4. Installation of the lock response mechanism

Performing this manipulation is the final stage of the work. It is necessary to make grooves for the lock bolts. If there is a latch, then it is mounted.

Indicative markings are also made here, but they need to be done especially accurately and carefully. There are many methods for applying it, however, we will focus on considering the most easily feasible method.

You need to start by lubricating the end of the latch and the bolt with regular chalk. Then, the door should be closed and the key turned in the inserted lock. The smeared areas of the latch and bolt will leave a characteristic mark on the door frame, indicating the place for cutting the socket recess.

Along with high decorative properties, the interior door performs an important function - protective. Therefore, installing a lock on an interior door from the manufacturer is carried out when it is necessary to prevent unauthorized people from accessing an important area. This activity can be done with your own hands, but first you need to decide on the type of lock. The features of its installation will depend on the functionality and design features of the fittings.

What types of locks are there?

Depending on the type of construction, the following types of locks are distinguished:

In addition to classification according to the shape of the lock, you can divide the types of fittings according to the type of locking mechanism:

• latches with a locking element;
• invoices;
• scuppers;
• fall;
• mortise;
• magnetic.

The last type of fittings is considered innovative. It is suitable for any type of modern door, does not make sounds during operation and therefore the demand for them is growing rapidly.

Features of choosing a lock for doors made of various materials

There is a wide range of interior doors on the market, but the following types of doors are most often used:

• from MDF with a width of 35 mm and 45 mm;
• retro wooden doors with plank frames;
• wooden panels of a modern device with panels 50 mm wide.

If you know the design features of the lock and door, then the process of installing the hardware will be simple.

Features of using flat locks

Flat locks can be inserted into wooden interior doors of new and old design without restrictions, even when finishing with platbands.

If the door is made of MDF and has a width of 35 mm, then a flat lock of reduced size can be installed on it, in which the size of the larger wide tongue is no more than 15 mm. Also, the width of the end adjustment of the fittings should not exceed 25 mm. This is caused by the structural features of the MDF board, which is not able to take on dynamic loads. Therefore, the lock can only be inserted into a wooden frame.

The nuances of using round locks

Despite the abundance of handle shapes for round locks, the installation principle is the same for all. The fitting mechanism is made for canvases with a thickness of 35-45 mm. Round locks for large wooden doors are not always commercially available, but the peculiarity of this type of hardware is that it can be adapted to any thickness of wood. For these purposes, it is enough to replace the short latch carrier, which is a steel plate 2-3 mm in cross-section with a hole at one end, with a longer similar element.

Depending on the door material, you can independently set the position of the latch exit toggle switch. For a wooden door this figure will be 70 mm, and for an MDF panel - 60 mm. The fittings designed for insertion into an interior door have a special feature - a cylinder located on the inside, which increases the convenience of locking.

If it is necessary to correctly insert a lock into a door that opens to the left, it is recommended to swap the cylinder and the latch, which is only possible when disassembling the structure. However, this option is not acceptable for offices due to its ease of hacking even without special equipment.

Instructions for installing a lock on an interior door

The event consists of several successive stages, the first of which is preparatory.

Preparation

Depending on the type of lock you choose, you will need a different set of consumables and tools. The latch handle is easier to install: you just need to make a hole of the appropriate diameter.

The installation of a twist lock with a lock (with a handle and a cylinder) is more complicated, since in addition to two holes for the handle and the cylinder, it requires creating a socket in the end part of the blade.

Choosing the height at which the lock will be inserted is an important point, especially for a frame structure. A lock can be inserted into a wooden door at any desired point, but in frame panels it is necessary to install the fittings in a specially laid beam, which is located at a height of 90-100 cm from the base.

Installation of fittings can be carried out before installation or on an existing interior structure. If an electric milling machine is used during the installation process, the blade is securely secured in a horizontal position using a slipway. In this case, the side being processed should be facing the master.

Tool preparation

To install the locking structure, prepare the necessary tools:

• Measuring tools: carpentry triangle, tape measure, pencil.
• Carpentry tools: flat and Phillips screwdrivers, hammer, chisel, slipway, chisel.
• Mechanical and electrical tools: screwdriver and set of bits, feather drills, drill for working with wooden materials (6 mm), suitable size bits, electric router.

Every home master has in his arsenal almost the entire list of necessary tools.

Features of installing a lock using a milling machine

Step back 1 m from the floor and mark the point where the lock will be installed to the canvas. In this case, the handle can be located at a different height, depending on user preferences.

The mortise depth of the fittings is determined by a triangle by measuring the lock body. It is necessary to put the resulting value on the canvas with a pencil, and outline the upper part of the castle along the contour.

Next, select a location for the latch and the well. To do this, measure the distance from the center of the keyhole to the end of the lock. The appropriate markings are applied to the door, after which holes for the keyhole with a latch are drilled using a feather drill.

Next, mark the recess into which the lock will be installed. To do this, the fittings are leaned against the end of the canvas with a crossbar. A cutter of the required circumference is installed in the tool and the recess is drilled. In this case, the crossbar must fit completely into the door leaf.

Next, a recess is cut for the lock well. A groove cutter inserted into the router is used to cut out a groove of such a size that the locking mechanism fits into it perfectly. The boundaries of the resulting recess are processed with a chisel and hammer for aesthetics.

The chips are blown out of the recess and the lock is immediately placed. The crossbar is fixed to the door using self-tapping screws, after which the fittings are installed directly.

Installation of a locking mechanism without a router

To install the locking mechanism without this type of tool, you will need a measuring ruler and a pencil, as well as chisels of various widths and round files. The main working tool is an electric door and a set of 10-14 mm drills. Detailed instructions will help you take further actions:

• Mark the desired location of the handle on the canvas, 70-100 cm away from the floor. Place the locking mechanism sideways on the face of the canvas. Holes deep into the door, made with a drill, are made at a slight angle.
• Use a chisel to level the surface of the nest. Place the lock on the face of the door, mark the core, make two holes and line them up with a file. Carry out these actions on the opposite side of the canvas.
• The structure is inserted into the groove, and the rod for the handles is threaded through. The lock tongue must be exposed. Marks for it are placed on the door frame, along which a groove will be made for the mating part of the lock. The bar is attached when the locking mechanism is ready.

How to mark up correctly?

Markings are most often applied according to certain patterns or based on the main dimensions of the parts of the locking mechanism that must be attached to the canvas. Experts recommend applying marking lines using a pointed awl or needle. Thus, it is possible to work directly along the contour. The pencil line has its own thickness, which gives an error.

When installing a round lock

A priori, it is necessary to accurately determine the location of the round lock on the door. After this, markings are applied using the product installation instructions and template. The height from the floor should be equal to 965 m. The markings are applied from the side of the cylinder, taking into account the thickness of the canvas and the length of the locking mechanism tongue.

Two dots are applied on the front side of the canvas. To obtain the first, you need to measure a distance of 60 mm from the edge of the door, and for the second - 70 mm.

A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drawn on the canvas, which is necessary for mounting the handle. At the end of the door, opposite the main hole, a second diameter of 23 mm is outlined, which will be the basis for the hole for the latch.

When installing a flat locking mechanism

On the door jamb you need to draw a vertical and horizontal axes with a pencil. The transverse line is drawn at a height of 965 mm from the finished floor point. If the door is made of solid wood or has a retro design, then the horizontal axis should be drawn at a height of 800 mm. The markings are applied to the lock attached to the door with a pencil and the lock is selected according to this drawing. The resulting socket will be slightly larger than the required size, which will allow you to adjust the gap for the mechanism.

There are certain nuances when marking holes for mounting the cylinder and spindle. This is done by attaching a lock to the side. The holes are made with an additional indentation from the end of the door. The width of these holes must be equal to the same parameter as the end plate.

Installation of a flat type lock

When installing this type of lock on a solid wood door, you can vary the height as desired. An MDF door has an area suitable for inserting fittings at a level of 1 m. You can quickly install a lock by pre-drilling holes with a feather-type drill, the diameter of which should be 1-3 mm greater than the thickness of the lock structure. Drilling is recommended to be done with single holes in 2 passes. After this, a socket is arranged using a chisel, according to the instructions, the contour of the groove is marked when inserting the lock and the hole for the groove is selected.

The recess for mounting the cylinder is made as follows:

• A round recess of slightly larger diameter is drilled for the cylinder.
• A round hole of smaller diameter is made to install the bottom of the cassette and pins.
• Remains are removed with a chisel.

Once these steps are completed, the lock is ready for installation. Remove the cylinder and handle from it, insert it into the socket, and then return all parts to their original positions. The unlocked lock assembly has 1 mm of play on all sides.

The next stage is identifying and marking the screw points. After marking is applied, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled. Once they are fully screwed in and the lock is secured to the door, install the handle on the locking mechanism as well as the tab cover.

The handle of the lock can be round or L-shaped. To install this element, you must perform the following steps:

• Decorative overlays must be attached to self-tapping screws on the front and back sides of the canvas.
• Insert and secure the handle mounting rod.
• Cover the canvas and make a mark on the box corresponding to the position of the tongue.
• Using a ruler, measure the length of the tongue and make the corresponding marks on the box.
• Place the overlay on the marks and trace.
• Along the boundary of the contour line you need to make holes with a drill, the shape of which is adjusted to the desired shape using a chisel.
• At the last stage, a tab is installed in the lock structure and fixed with hardware.

After installation, be sure to check the smoothness and accuracy of the lock. If an error is identified, the location of the tongue can be changed.

Installing a lock with a cylinder

The insertion diagram for this type of fittings almost completely repeats the option described above. Having drawn marks on the end of the door, drill the recesses vertically, keeping the distance between them to a minimum. The jumpers between the two rows are removed with a chisel, preparing a large nest. Holes are drilled in the canvas, one on each side for the cylinder and for the handle.

Then, using a chisel, the door material is selected for arranging the well, the lock, its handles and the counter part of the strip are inserted.

A router can greatly facilitate the work, allowing you to obtain a smooth surface without errors and preserve the aesthetics of the canvas.

Installation of a round lock

To drill holes according to the applied markings, you will need a crown of suitable diameter. The diameter of the hole must be large enough to accommodate the mechanism and sufficient to cover it with decorative overlays. You can use ready-made sets of crowns.

When drilling holes, cracks and chips may form on the surface. To prevent this, holes should be made from two deep to the center. Then, using this method, a hole is made in the end part of the door for the mechanism. A hole for the tongue is drilled in the central part of the marking.

Install a lock in the prepared socket, remove the latch and trace the contour of the fittings, remove the latch. Using a chisel, make a hole large enough for the outer plates to pass through. When carrying out this exercise, extreme care must be taken to cut the required height and maintain the aesthetics of the door. Check the door and fittings for functionality.

If you decide to install interior doors with your own hands, it is worth noting that the easiest way is when the insertion of door locks and hinges is not done with your own hands, but at the manufacturer’s factory. As a rule, the manufacturer carefully selects such accessories, is reliable and has excellent performance characteristics. Read more about choosing door locks. When buying doors with installed fittings, however, you may encounter some difficulties in choosing. The most common thing is that the color or design is not suitable. For example, you want a gold-colored lock, but the manufacturer says chrome. Or you need Italian magnetic locks AGB, with silent closing like Morelli, with a plastic tongue, but they offer steel. Regarding hinges, you can get by with little expense - buy door hinges without a mortise. A universal loop without an insert does not look so aesthetically pleasing, but still.

There is always a way out - just buy what you need, cut in the locks/hinges with your own hands and install. It is not worth saving on fittings, since a failed mechanism can significantly complicate the further operation of interior doors. Exactly the same lock or door hinges may no longer be released, and an analogue, as a rule, will not “fit” into an already formed groove. We recommend embedding and installing silent or magnetic locks AGB, Morelli (Italy). For more than 10 years now, the installation dimensions of these products are the same and you can easily replace them as needed, although they simply do not break.

So the locks, universal or hidden hinges have been selected, purchased and brought, you need to install them yourself. For example, for unfamiliar fittings, we first draw a diagram of the upcoming insertion in the real size of the AvtoCAD program for automated installation, but you can mark it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, especially if the insertion of the lock and hinges is done by yourself. Marking is an important stage, it is necessary to pay special attention to it. “Measure twice, cut once” - it works! Otherwise, the product is damaged, the supplier will not exchange it for you, and this is a considerable financial loss. The marking directly depends on the type of lock and its features. It is important to dance from the hole under the handle. If you do not take this into account, then the door handles may end up at different distances from the bottom of the door leaf, and if the doors are installed in close proximity to each other, it will come out - oops or oops! When making calculations and markings, use a square, tape measure, pencil, awl or construction knife.

Do-it-yourself insertion of door hinge locks - methods

1. Using a drill and chisels - the old-fashioned method

The most common is what is called the “household” option.

Marking and inserting an interior lock

We take a tape measure and measure from the bottom of the canvas, at the end where the lock will cut in 95 cm (this is our standard, 100 cm is possible), apply a square, draw a transverse line and transfer the markings to the plane of the canvas, to mark under the door handle. Marking is done with a sharp pencil or awl.

We take the lock and use a square to measure the distance from the front plate to the middle of the square hole of the handle and apply the result on the plane of the canvas on both sides. We apply the lock to the end of the canvas, so that the line drawn in advance for the handle is in the center of the hole in the square and mark the upper and lower edges of the lock. We will drill this size. Next, use a square to mark the center of the canvas and draw the center line of the insert.

After marking for the lock and along the drawn center line, drillings are made on the end part of the canvas with a pen (usually 14-16 mm, depending on the thickness of the lock), as often as possible from each other. In order not to drill out too much, a notch is made on the feather drill to the depth of the lock using iso or masking tape.

The trick is to avoid catching the adjacent hole with the pen, since a drill rotating at high speed can suddenly jam, get stuck and damage the door. Then the groove is formed using several flat chisels, first removing excess wood along the blade, and then cleaning the side planes so as not to split the blade. Then holes are drilled for the handle, and, if necessary, for the cylinder (key) or screwdriver. It is important to drill holes on both sides of the canvas, and not through it! A lock is inserted into the formed groove, aligned with the drilled hole for the handle, its overhead, decorative strip is outlined with a sharpened pencil and the final selection is made with a chisel.

That's it, the lock mortise is done by hand!

Mortise of the lock mate

The counter part or “response” is cut in after the door block is installed. The markup is very simple. We close the door and, through the pretend gap, mark the lower and upper edges of the latch. We draw transverse lines on the box. Next, use a square to measure the distance to the edge of the tongue on the door and transfer it to the frame. This will be the limiter for the upcoming drilling and installation of the answer.

We drill two holes with a pen, and select the central part with a chisel. We attach the lock strike plate, drill holes for the screws and fasten it. We try - everything works. The answer should be deepened only if its thickness exceeds 1 mm. This is done with a chisel, having previously outlined the screwed-on mating part.

Marking and inserting door hinges

The trick is that marking and inserting hinges should begin with the door leaf. And so our door is 2000 mm, and the hinge is 200 mm, we measure 20 and 160 cm from the top of the leaf along the end, draw transverse lines, apply the loop parallel to the end of the leaf below the line and mark the edges with a sharp pencil.

It is more correct to mark exactly the loop that will subsequently be installed in this particular groove, since the factory stamping may differ. We take it with our own hands, and with the help of a chisel, and as shown in the video, we cut the lower and upper hinges into the door.

Another feature is the insertion depth. It happens that the gap between the parallel folded parts of the hinge is less than 2 mm, and the requirements for the hinge gap of the door block are just 2 mm. In this case, the loop needs to be deepened a little less. There may be a gap of more than 2 mm, then the loop still cuts flush with the plane of the end! Thus, you will have to come to terms with the hinge gap of the assembled block, but take this point into account when calculating, marking and filing the top element of the box, since it is standardly 6 mm, 4 mm from the rebate part and 2 mm from the hinge part, respectively.

The next stage is inserting the loops into the box element of the block. So the hinges are cut into and installed in the canvas, we attach the box and mark the edges of the hinges. We apply the loop to the marks parallel to the door frame and trace it with a pencil.

There is one correct nuance. We should take into account in advance the fact that the thickness of the door leaf and the width of the quarter frame from the seal to the edge may be different, but we really need a good rebate, that is, a tight (but not too tight!) fit of the seal to the leaf when the door is closed! To do this, before inserting the loops, we measure these values.

Let’s say the blade is 40 mm and the quarter is 42 mm, what should we do? Everything is very simple, you need to cut the loop into the box 2 mm deeper into the seal than into the canvas. But this is initially incorrect, since in this case, a deep-set hinge will expose part of the mortise, and when opening/closing the door, it will begin to wipe against the frame or frame, producing an unpleasant creak. Therefore, it is more correct not to recess the hinges in the box, but to push them out on the canvas and by the same 2 mm.

Flaws

• There is a high risk of damage to the door leaf coating as a result of a slip drill or chisel, especially if the tool is not sharpened to razor level before starting work! Sharpen cutting tools, use new drills,
• there is a great risk of simply splitting the canvas through inept actions or, say, stabbing, which will then significantly affect the strength and durability of door blocks and structures,
• you may not like the aesthetics of the inset, especially if you have no experience in “wood carving”,
• it will take a long time, but “long” is not something that should frighten a novice craftsman eager to cut into locks and hinges with his own hands,
• The list can be continued, but the lock in the interior door has already been installed with your own hands, and this is the main thing!

Advantages

• in skillful, diligent and diligent hands, there may not be all the shortcomings, do not be alarmed,
• the cheapness of the tools used, especially if you practice “household”. Do not buy frankly cheap chisels and feather drills!

2. Inserting hinges and locks into doors using a hand router.

The technology depends on the type of equipment used. There is a technology of template milling, when all manipulations are carried out according to a pre-prepared template or using a “ruler”, using cutters of different diameters and lengths. There is, of course, professional equipment, where everything is thought out and adapted for the work. In any case, the basic principle is rotating at a speed close to 25 thousand rpm. a milling cutter with the help of which the correct insertion of hinges and locks into an interior door occurs with your own hands. For example, in our work we use more than three types of milling cutters from the manufacturers Makita and Virutex, various templates and a Spanish template holder, screw and spiral cutters of different diameters from “CMT” Germany.

The markings for inserting with a router are no different from household ones, and the milling itself has a number of features, which will be discussed below.

As for the door lock, cutting it in with your own hands using a router is carried out using a standard ruler that comes with the equipment, using cutters of different diameters. In general - nothing complicated, the main thing is that the stroke of the collet with the cutter provides it with the necessary immersion depth, to the height of the lock, respectively. In the video, a do-it-yourself lock using a router is made offset to the left edge. This is another subtlety of installing silent AGB locks and more. The counter part of the lock with the tongue is rounded and should be installed along the edge of the box, so in order for the lock to look beautiful, you need to take this into account when inserting it, moving the lock along the canvas if necessary.

Do-it-yourself cutting of hinges with a router has a number of features. On the door leaf, everything is similar to the lock, using a ruler we select the plane, depth and parallel edge, then we form the end edge with a chisel of 30-40 mm.

The trick is that in order for the end edge to turn out beautiful and accurate, the chisel must be held perpendicular to the plane at the moment of hitting with a hammer, chopping and cleaning the wood in several stages, a little at a time, this is important.

It is more difficult to embed hinges into the door frame with your own hands, since, unlike the door leaf, which has one pressing plane, the frame consists of two planes. Essentially, you will have to mill the lower plane and press the equipment platform to the upper one. The task is not easy, and therefore our milling cutters have special modifications to the platform. Of course, there are all sorts of devices, carriages, templates and even a special loop router made by Virutex. We didn’t use carriages, you get tired of making templates for each loop, but loop Virutex is a thing, but it’s expensive, and we don’t need it. How can you cut hinges into a box with a simple router, but with your own hands - I don’t know, I’ve reached a dead end, ideas will come up, I’ll add to the article.

Flaws

• high cost of equipment,
• all sorts of nuances associated with inept use.

Advantages

• Precise, high-quality, neat insertion of locks and hinges into interior doors, made by yourself!

The question of how to embed a lock into a wooden door yourself often arises before those who decide all repair issues themselves. In other life situations, such skills and knowledge can also be useful, especially since there is nothing complicated about it.

First, you need to figure out which doors you need to install a lock on and, in accordance with their type, choose a suitable locking device.

Wooden doors are intended for:

• input
• interior

By appearance and type of operation:

Have you decided on the type of door? Let's start choosing the optimal lock.

Lock selection

There are three types of locks:

A rim lock on a wooden door leaf does not look aesthetically pleasing.

You cannot find a better mortise-type locking device for both interior and entrance doors. Installing such a lock will require some knowledge and skill, but, if desired, anyone can do it. When purchasing, you should take into account the direction of opening the door and, accordingly, choose a “right or left” lock. There are also universal models suitable for any occasion.

For an interior door, it is better to choose a lock without a keyhole with a magnetic or halyard latch, when turning the handle activates the mechanism.

For sliding types of doors, there are models of locks on sale with a special hook that secures the doors in the closed state.

For entrance doors, locks with bolts are chosen; this is the most reliable type against burglary.

Tools

The first step in preparing for work is selecting the tools that will be needed to install a mortise lock. You will need:

• pencil or pen for marking
• electric drill
• a feather drill, the width of which corresponds to the thickness of the lock
• set of wood drills from 2 to 7 mm
• narrow and wide chisel
• screwdriver
• screwdriver
• hammer or chisel
• tape measure, square or ruler

Making a groove for a lock

1. Determine the location of the lock on the door. As a rule, the lock is embedded 1 meter from the floor - plus/minus 10 cm depending on the height of those who will mainly use it.
2. Apply the lock to the door leaf with the side that you will cut in, and trace it with a pen or pencil.
3. Drill a hole equal to the width of the lock using a feather drill. You can do this in two ways:

• do not drill a hole to the full depth at once, but move gradually 1-2 cm to the required mark in the door leaf
• Drill to the full depth at once, having previously made marks on the drill equal to the width of the lock being embedded. To do this, you can use electrical tape or a piece of wire.

It should be noted that it is necessary to drill 1-3 mm larger than the size of the lock body, since it must fit into the drilled groove without obstacles, and the front plate must be placed completely in it.

During drilling, the drill must be held level, perpendicular to the blade, so that there is no displacement of the groove being drilled.

1. Process the groove using a chisel and hammer. Its walls should be as smooth as possible so that the lock fits neatly inside the door leaf.
2. Make markings for the front lock bar if you are sure that it fits into the groove without any hindrance. To do this, insert the lock into it and trace the outline of the bar with a pencil. Using a chisel, use a chisel to knock out a notch according to the markings.

Installing a lock and handle

Is the groove ready? Proceed to installing the locking device.

1. Make markings for the cylinder and door handle. You need to pay close attention to this and be careful, otherwise you can ruin everything. Place the lock opposite the groove and, using measuring instruments (ruler, square), accurately mark the future location of the keyhole and door handle.
2. Using suitable drills, make the necessary holes for the handle and cylinder.
3. Insert the lock into the hole and, if everything fits, screw it to the door leaf with the screws that should come with the lock. If it doesn’t fit, then continue to align the groove with a chisel and file, not forgetting to constantly double-check how the lock fits into it.

Lock assembly and adjustment

Now you need to adjust the operation of the lock and drill holes for the bolts and latch.

1. Insert the cylinder into the lock and secure it with the supplied bolt. Check how it works. If everything is fine, secure the handle and faceplate.
2. Lubricate the bolts and latch with dye, close the door and turn the key so that obvious marks remain on the jamb.
3. Cut the wood to the required depth of the bolts and latches. Use a chisel to trim the edges to exact dimensions.
4. Prepare the recess for the striker (also use measuring tools during this work) so that it is flush with the surface of the box. Screw it on using the screws supplied with the lock.

Everything is ready - you have managed to install a mortise lock on a wooden door. Use the handle and key to make sure everything is level and the lock is comfortable to use. Using a chisel, correct the location of the lock parts if you made a mistake somewhere.