How to use a sewing machine. How to make an old sewing machine an interior decoration Threading the upper thread

In the event of a serious breakdown of the sewing machine, only a competent specialist can help it. Although, in most cases, as practice shows, complex repairs are not required for a machine operated at home, but in order to be able to use it, it is only necessary to configure and adjust it. And it is quite possible to do it on your own, the main thing is to learn and understand how to properly set up the sewing machine before work and which parts should be adjusted in it.

How to set up and adjust the sewing machine

The main malfunctions requiring tuning and adjustment

The main malfunctions that require timely adjustment and adjustment can be called:

• stitch instability, which consists in the formation of gaps in the line, different lengths of threads, a break in one of them or both at once;
• the manifestation of violations in the line, namely the contraction of the fabric in the form of an accordion, excessive pulling or loosening of the loop, as well as beveling the line;
• change in stroke, accompanied by noise, the appearance of "heaviness" or jamming.

Stitch instability

The occurrence of all these malfunctions suggests that you need to take a closer look at the operation of the sewing machine, determine the cause of their occurrence and try to eliminate it. If you do this at the very initial stage, then it will not require much effort. Continued operation of the sewing machine in the wrong mode may require expensive repairs that only a professional can carry out.

Read also - how to fix the problem if the sewing machine starts to break the upper thread.

Basic rules for self-configuring sewing

Setting up a sewing machine with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to adhere to a certain sequence of actions, the main stages of which are:

Among other things, before starting work, it is necessary to set the stitch length. Usually their exact value for different types of fabric and a particular line is indicated in the instruction manual for the device. In this case, the average value of this value is from 1 to 2 mm when using thin fabric and not less than 3 mm - thick matter. It is also worth checking the sharpness and compliance of the sewing needle. If the needle is blunt or too fine for a particular type of fabric and thread, skipped stitches will occur.

Choosing a sewing machine needle

No matter how strange it may seem, but the needle is one of the most important elements of the sewing machine, so before you wonder how to properly set up the sewing machine, you need to check this element. In the process of sewing, the needle makes several hundred punctures in the fabric, some of which are not thin and light. Over time, this leads to its blunting, and subsequently to the fact that it bends. And in the event that, in the course of its movement, the needle hits the metal of the device case at least once, then the tip will certainly doubt. At the same time, inexperienced craftsmen may not pay attention to such an incident and during a visual inspection they will not notice the defect that has arisen. But in fact, it will exist, and when the tissue is punctured, it will form relatively large tears on the latter. The thread, which at the same time passes through the eye of the needle, will cling to the deformed point, while slowing down with the appearance of an excess of it in the stitch. Loops will begin to form in the line. In addition, a bent, blunt needle can cause permanent thread breakage, especially if you are sewing a complex section of the product when the top thread is pulled to the maximum.

In such situations, manual and electric sewing machine adjustments and adjustments are not required as such. And to perform the work in normal mode, you just need to replace the needle yourself. This element in the machine must be changed as often as possible. This will not complicate the work in any way, but on the contrary, it will make sewing really high-quality and neat.

When replacing the sewing needle, it is necessary to choose this element strictly corresponding to the type of machine. In no case should a needle intended for an industrial sewing machine be installed in a household appliance. It is extremely difficult to confuse them, since needles for industrial devices do not have a cut on the flask. Using such a needle in a household sewing machine, the gap between the needle blade and the nose of the hook is broken, which at best leads to skipped stitches. And at worst - to damage the hook of the sewing machine. Also very important is the correct location of the element in the needle holder, which consists in finding the blade from the side of the shuttle nose.

Choosing and installing a needle

Before inserting even a new needle corresponding to the type of sewing machine into the needle holder, you need to make sure that there is no curvature of it, which at first glance may not be noticed. In order to make sure that the needle is absolutely straight, you can put it on a glass or mirror. The gap will be visible immediately. In addition, you need to choose a needle in accordance with the fabric used. So for sewing "complex" fabrics, such as stretch, jeans or artificial leather, there are special needles that have a special shape that contributes to a better passage of the needle through the fabric, thereby eliminating skipped stitches and uneven loops created by the upper thread.

The needle must be selected according to the number of thread used. At the same time, it is worth considering the peculiarity of new sewing machines, which consists in the presence of a guide limiter under the surface of the table, which prevents the needle point from leaving the side. At the same time, the distance from it increases with increasing tissue thickness.

Choosing a needle according to the type of fabric

Setting the interaction between the needle and the hook of the sewing machine

The joint work of the shuttle and the needle

The quality of the result obtained during the sewing process depends on the setting of the shuttle assembly and the needle of the sewing machine, or rather on the correspondence of the gaps between them to the correct values, in the absence of which gaps, loops and breaks in the lower and upper threads can also occur in the lines. In order to make this adjustment, it is necessary to understand how the machine works when forming a buttonhole.

So when the needle is raised by 1.5-2 mm from its initial position, a loop is formed from the upper thread, located slightly above the eye. In this case, the nose of the shuttle should pass almost close to the hollow of the needle. This distance should not exceed 0.15 mm. The value from the nose of the shuttle to the eye of the needle in this case should be 0.5 mm. These values ​​are approximate and correspond to work with fabrics of medium thickness. Depending on the type of material used, they may vary somewhat. Understanding their numerical value can only be done experimentally in the process of doing work, and such skills in most cases come with experience.

It is also worth noting the importance of the correct installation of the vertical position of the gear rack. She is responsible for the movement of the fabric relative to the needle and the body of the sewing machine during operation. At the moment when the needle pierces the fabric, the upper edges of the teeth of the rail should be at the level of the desktop of the sewing machine.

Proper care of your sewing machine

In order for each time before using the sewing machine it is not required to adjust it, it is enough to follow certain preventive measures, the main of which include:

• lubrication of all main parts must be carried out with special oil at least once every six months;
• after each use of the sewing machine, it is imperative to remove from its surface, as well as the covers of the hook and the needle plate, all dust and dirt formed during operation;
• before hiding the machine in a cover, it is necessary to make sure that there are no torn threads and fabric in its structural elements, as well as placing thick paper or cardboard under the foot, lower it all the way;
• storage of the sewing machine must be carried out in a case;
• Pedal and drive cords should be coiled as neatly as possible to avoid kinks or breaks.

Proper storage of the sewing machine

Adjusting the sewing machine after a long break in work

If the sewing machine has not been used for a long period of time, it must be checked and adjusted before use. This is necessary in order to make sure that during the long “standing” all the main elements and mechanisms have not rusted due to improper storage. To do this, you need to lubricate all the metal parts of the device with the oil that comes with the sewing machine. If it is not there or it is over, then you can use ordinary engine oil. Further, without lowering the foot, it is necessary to drive it away at low speed in vain, so that all the elements that did not get oil are also processed by it.

After all these steps, you need to replace the sewing needle, and only after that proceed with threading and using the device. The first line is best done on a piece of unnecessary fabric in order to avoid getting machine oil on the material of the product that will be made using a sewing machine. In this case, it will become clear whether the line is correct. After that, you can safely start working with full confidence that this device is working properly and will not spoil the main fabric.

Thus, it is quite possible to set up a sewing machine on your own. The main thing is to understand what kind of problem arises in the process of doing the work. All basic operations are standard and apply to both manual and electric sewing machines. If every time before starting to use, check all the main parts and components of the device, as well as take preventive measures in a timely manner and use it correctly in accordance with all points of the instruction manual, then the question of how to set up and adjust the sewing machine will not arise.

Read also why the bottom thread in the line began to wind.

technosova.ru

How to set up a manual sewing machine?

To date, manufacturing companies of sewing machines most often specialize in the production of foot-powered models powered by electric energy. Such devices are very ergonomic, both hands remain free, the time for performing individual operations is significantly reduced. Unfortunately, manual mechanical machines, which were used by our grandmothers, often gather dust without work. Completely wrong! We will deal with the question of how to set up a manual sewing machine, and over time you will be able not to resort to the services of a sewing workshop, creating real sewing masterpieces.

The first sewing device made of wood was created by the French tailor Timonnier. For all its primitiveness, the productivity of this mechanism was several times higher than that of a person sewing by hand. The first sewing machine was met with a rather aggressive reception by the workers, since the mass production of such mechanisms threatened with mass layoffs.

Subsequently, Timonier improved his invention. Some of his ideas are used in today's models. Its peculiarity is that it can work even with the thinnest and most delicate fabrics, for example, with silk.

A shuttle machine, vaguely reminiscent of a modern one, was invented by W. Hunt in 1834. This device was also equipped with a tissue advancement mechanism. The machine was equipped with a horizontal needle. For the first time, the vertical movement of the needle was put into practice in the famous Singer machines.

• On the right side is a wheel called a winder. It is driven by hand.
• Next to the wheel is a lever by which the stitch length is adjusted.
• On the left side of the machine is the bobbin and the needle and presser foot. There is also a regulator for tensioning the upper thread and a lever for raising the presser foot.
• The working surface of the device is equipped with rails that advance the fabric during the sewing process.

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How to set up an old sewing machine: general principles

The essence of tuning is to choose the right thread number and needle to work with a particular fabric. The quality of the stitching largely depends on how well the thread tension is adjusted. If the tension is incorrect, the seam “winds” from below or from above.

How to set up a manual sewing machine:

1. The bobbin thread tension can be adjusted using the screw located on the bobbin case. The thread tension is stronger, the more the screw is tightened.
2. The tension of the upper thread is adjusted using a special regulator, which is located near the lever that raises the foot.

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Rules for using the machine "Seagull"

Here are some of the most important rules for using a sewing machine of this brand:

• Do not start sewing without first lowering the needle and presser foot.
• The handle should only be turned towards you.
• To lubricate the machine, use only special oil.

Important! Use the machine only on those fabrics that are suitable for all types of stitches. Otherwise, the machine may become unusable.

How to set up a manual sewing machine "Seagull"? The most important point when setting up the “Seagull” is the correct installation of the thread and needle:

1. Turn the knob to set the thread take-up mechanism to its highest position.
2. Insert the needle into the holder until it stops, turning the flat side to the rod on which the foot is located.
3. Secure the needle with a screw.
4. Place the spool of thread on the special pin.
5. Pass the thread through the thread guide and friction washers.
6. Insert the thread into the thread take-up, and then fix it into the thread guide and needle bar.
7. In conclusion, the thread must be threaded into the eye of the needle.

All this applies to the upper thread.

Let's deal with the setting of the lower thread:

1. Wind the thread onto the bobbin.
2. Insert the bobbin into the cap, bring the thread out.
3. Insert the cap back until it clicks.
4. Turn the thread tensioner knob.
5. Thread both threads under the foot.

All! Now you can sew.

• In accordance with the instructions, the flywheel of the machine must rotate only in the direction “towards itself” (the direction of movement of the handle is from the working person). Rotation of the handwheel “away from you” is unacceptable, as the thread in the hook may become tangled.
• When the machine is not in use, the presser foot must be raised.
• Do not start the device without placing fabric under the presser foot, as the teeth of the device that advances the fabric may become dull.
• It is impossible to stretch or push the fabric during operation. The needle may break or bend. The machine itself advances the fabric.
• When working, do not forget to close the front plate tightly over the shuttle.

How to wind the thread on the bobbin?

The Podolsk machine is equipped with a special winding device located behind the machine, near the flywheel.

Important! The work of the winder is carried out together with the tension lower device of the thread, which is located in the right corner of the platform. The mechanism of the sewing device must not operate while winding the thread.

How to set up an old manual sewing machine of this model:

1. The first thing to do is turn off the flywheel so it can't start the car moving. To do this, turn the friction screw located in the central part of the flywheel towards you.
2. Install the bobbin on the winder.
3. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin.
4. Pass the thread from the spool under the take-up washer and then up to the bobbin.
5. Press the winder frame down so that the pulley rim is in contact with the flywheel.
6. Hold the free end of the thread until there are enough turns to secure the thread. Then cut off the protruding end of the thread.

Important! With proper winding, the turns lie tightly and evenly.

Loading the bobbin into the cap:

1. Holding the bobbin with your right hand, insert it into the cap. In this case, the oblique slot of the cap should be on top.
2. Then pull the thread through the slot to the tension spring, and then into the slot at the very end of the spring.
3. Insert the cap into the machine, bring out the free end of the thread and close the bobbin.

How to install the needle correctly?

The needle is installed when the needle bar is in its highest position.

Important! You need to install the needle correctly. Otherwise, the line will turn out with gaps. The flat part of the bulb of the needle is directed to the left, and the long groove on the blade is directed to the right.

Upper threading:

1. Turn the handwheel toward you to set the thread take-up lever with the hole to its highest position.
2. Place the spool on the stem and draw the thread towards the eye of the needle.

Important! It is necessary to thread the thread into the eye of the needle outward - from right to left.

Preparing the machine for sewing

How to set up a manual sewing machine, figured out. Now let's get ready for sewing:

1. First of all, pull the bobbin thread out. To do this, turn the handwheel of the machine so that the needle first drops, grabbing the bobbin thread, and rises again to the top position.
2. After that, take both threads back and bring them under the foot.
3. Lower the presser foot onto the lined fabric.
4. The machine is ready to go.

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Features of setting up mini-machines

This is the best option for occasional use. Outwardly, such a machine looks like a stapler for fastening papers.

Important! The device is freely placed in a lady's handbag. The machine takes up very little space and can be held with one hand.

The resemblance to a stapler is not accidental. The principle of use is about the same, only instead of staples, a spool of thread is inserted on the side. Before threading, it is necessary to wind the thread on the usual standard spool that comes with the device.

Important! You can buy several of these spools in the store and wind threads of different colors on them.

The compact stand-alone machine sews well both thin and heavy dense fabrics. You can use it both at home and while traveling. The design is extremely simple: press the button and sew the fabric.

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Service Questions

Repair of the sewing unit is best entrusted to a professional craftsman. However, there are settings that a seamstress can handle on their own. Moreover, in the process of work you have to deal with different types of fabrics. Knowing how to set up an old sewing machine in case of minor problems is necessary.

Presser foot pressure

You can adjust it by tightening or loosening the bolt that presses the presser foot spring. It is located directly above the foot and is made so that it is convenient to twist it by hand.

Important! If you are going to work with thin fabric, the presser foot pressure must be loosened.

Height of teeth for advancing tissue

In the Chaika machine, regulation is carried out using a 4-position disc. The thicker the fabric, the stronger the teeth should protrude. When embroidering, the teeth are completely hidden.

Important! "Podolsk" has 3 positions of regulation of teeth.

Lower thread tension adjustment

It is carried out using a special adjusting nut. Adjustment is made, for example, if loops form from below.

Upper thread tension adjustment

To do this, there is a small screw, which is located on the spring of the bobbin case. Adjustment is made if loops appear at the top during sewing.

Important! Sometimes, when the bobbin rotates too freely inside the cap, the thread often breaks.

New models of sewing machines are equipped with special spring devices that press the bobbin. This is not the case with older cars. You can simply solve the problem of how to set up an old sewing machine:

• cut out a circle with a diameter slightly smaller than a hairpin from fabric or thin paper;
• cut a hole in the center for the axle.

It remains to put a homemade washer in the bobbin cap, drop a special oil for sewing machines on it, and then insert the bobbin.

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Care Issues

1. If you work on a sewing machine without lubricating it for years, it will, of course, work, but over time, various problems will arise and sewing quality will deteriorate. But, if you regularly lubricate it, it will last much longer. Lubricate the car once every six months or a year.

Important! When lubricating, use special sewing machine oil. Otherwise, the appearance of a “lining oil effect” is possible, and the movement of the machine becomes more difficult.

1. Clean the equipment of dust much more often. It all depends on what fabrics you use when sewing. Especially a lot of dust from fur, wool and knitwear. After work, it is necessary to sweep the dust under the covers, from the surface of the machine, under the shuttle and the needle plate. You can use a regular cosmetic brush for this.
2. At the end of the work, it is necessary to place a small piece of dense fabric (for example, denim) under the foot.
3. The machine must be kept in a non-working condition under a cover.

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footage

With proper care, the device will work flawlessly, and you will rarely have questions about how to set up a manual sewing machine or repair it. This means that you can easily create original clothes for yourself and look irresistible in it.

serviceyard.net

The device and principle of operation of the sewing machine

Initially, the device of the sewing machine was developed in such a way that it could independently perform work, thereby replacing a person. This invention made it possible to significantly facilitate the work of a seamstress and increase its productivity. The scheme of work allows even an absolute beginner, who has never held a needle in his hands, to sew straight and high-quality stitches. The latest generation of devices not only sew in a simple way, they are able to create patterns and embroidery. The achievements of modern technology are amazing, but the principle of operation of each sewing machine is still based on the very first algorithm developed many years ago.

Scheme of the sewing machine

There are basic parts of a sewing machine, without which not a single unit can do:

• flywheel;
• winder;
• sleeve;
• sewing platform;
• stitch selection wheel;
• sleeve rack
• receiver (reverse)
• needle holder;
• needle plate;
• foot;
• presser foot raise and lower lever.

But these are the details that are visible on a superficial examination - they are a small fraction of the mechanism hidden under the case. Inside there is a complex system for driving the shuttle. We can say that the operation of the sewing machine is entirely based on the shuttle. For an unprepared person, the parts diagram of an ordinary sewing machine may seem complicated and confusing, but everything becomes clear if you understand a little.

The bobbin is the most visible detail with which the tailor constantly interacts. It is located behind a retractable panel under the needle. To remove the bobbin from the slot, pull it towards you and slightly up. Thus, you will bend the small grip and release the element.

The bobbin is necessary for the supply of threads, which are wound on it from the main spool before work. This happens automatically - the thread from the spool is threaded into a special hole in the bobbin. After that, the part is placed in the nest, and the spool of thread is fixed on the body of the machine. When the flywheel is activated, the bobbin rotates, which winds the thread on its axis, while the spool of thread also rotates.

To tension the thread during operation, the structure of the bobbin includes a small screw. Properly set settings exclude the possibility of skipping the top and bottom stitches. A tailor can sew without being distracted by constant quality checks. Carefully check the thread before starting work, its excessive tension causes permanent breaks. Watch a video about perfect thread tension.

A small detail, the so-called spout, is designed to insure the coil from accidental loss of the bobbin. It is mounted on a moving panel, which is pressed by a spring mechanism from the sleeve body. If everything works as intended, then the system does not crash. As long as this part is in the correct position, the bobbin is securely fixed in the sewing machine and cannot be pulled out. To reassemble, fold back the spout, and while holding it in this position, insert the bobbin into place.

When examining the body on a sewing machine, you can find an elongated protrusion. Its task is to prevent the rotation of the spool with the bobbin or the shuttle drive.

The bobbin inserted into place interacts with one of the main parts of the device, namely with the shuttle. It is presented in the form of a part passing back and forth, embedded in a special profile.

A working sewing machine sets it in motion through a connecting rod that sets the correct path.

The operation of the connecting rod can be controlled by the operator. For this, a retractable metal panel is specially provided on the case. By unscrewing it, you can see how the flywheel rotates, setting in motion the needle, which goes up and down. At the lifting point, not reaching the table surface of five millimeters, a sharp grip passes by it.

This grip is the nose of the shuttle. The design of the sewing machine provides for a gap between this nose and the needle, not too large, but not small enough to allow them to accidentally come into contact.

Sometimes the distance starts to increase, and if its value changes even by half a millimeter, then the machine will start skipping stitches in the line. With such a failure, the needle continues its work, the fabric advances regularly, but the thread does not sew it at all. Perforated matter is practically not fastened together and continues its movement. To eliminate this trouble, it is necessary to adjust the position of the needle to the hook.

Video on how to adjust the sewing machine shuttle from the Podolsk company.

Operation of the sewing machine

How is the sewing machine arranged, and what forces drive its internal processes? The whole system is based on the simplest principle based on a given movement of the needle. Taking the upper thread with her, she threads it down. Then it is picked up by a shuttle that is already ready for this, and intertwines the lower thread with the upper thread.

The simplest movement provides the basis for complex manipulations such as zigzag stitches and even patterned embroidery. Video on how to embroider on a home sewing machine.

Manufacturers are improving their models. Today, there are already units with a special addition in the form of a side needle for processing the edges of matter, but it is not easy to find them in ordinary stores.

The inner part of the case hides a drive, which is operated manually (in mechanical machines) or by means of an electric motor (in electromechanical devices). The engine through the connecting rod starts the rotation of the other three shafts. Going into details, we can say that the system includes one intermediate axle, which transmits a rotational impulse to the three described shafts.

This system is designed for a long period of use and is considered quite durable. To apply lubricants to moving parts, holes are provided in the body, into which the nozzle of the greaser can easily pass.

The mechanisms of mechanical sewing machines do not lend themselves to rapid wear, and their characteristics are considered among the best. With proper care, the device can serve the tailor up to fifty years, without any problems. However, for this you need to follow all the preparations prescribed by the instructions before work, as well as regularly coat and clean moving parts.

In more advanced models, a pedal is provided, when pressed by the foot, all mechanisms are set in motion. It is much more convenient to use, as it provides freedom to the hands. Of course, modern designers have improved this system too, turning the pedal from mechanical to electric.

Cloth movement

Speaking about how a home sewing machine works, one cannot omit the description of a device designed to pull fabric. This revolutionary invention for its time made it possible to set the desired stitch length, and also relieved tailors of the obligation to monitor the progress of the flap.

Everything happens as follows:

• at the first stage, the main shaft passes through the central part, which is connected to the flywheel axis through the connecting rod;
• two rods pass in the side parts, during the synchronous rotation of which the broaching mechanism sets in motion.

The first is equipped with a part, which experts call among themselves "Dovetail". For a simple person, it is more like a key. This element moves back and forth in the direction of the fabric.

The second axis has a cam, which is located in the dovetail space. Its main function is to raise and lower this part.

The final result of all movements of the listed mechanisms is the operation of the sewing machine, the part in the form of a “dovetail” sets in motion the broach teeth. Having received an impulse, the teeth perform their steps, scrolling in place.

All manipulations to adjust the stitch length are carried out using the rotary lever. A very small piece is fastened to the axis of the tailed key. When the lever is turned, the tails change their configuration from the initial position, which leads to a change in the stitch length in the line. The video shows how to correctly adjust the length of the steps.

Thread tension

This manipulation is carried out using a special screw located above the needle holder. The tension of the upper thread is an important indicator that controls the quality of the seam. Not far from the needle holder is a special eye that moves during operation and does not allow the tensioned thread to loosen or sag when the needle goes up. Without this little detail, all the work of the sewing machine would come to naught.

Video on how to assemble and install the thread tension regulator.

winding device

At the end of the description, a few words should be said about the winding device. As a rule, not far from the flywheel for winding, there is a small pressure wheel with a shaft equipped with a risk.

On the panel below it, there is an eyelet with another small wheel. The spool is mounted on a vertical stand, and from it the thread is passed over the table to be wound on the bobbin. To ensure proper operation, the pressure wheel is gently pressed with a finger, after which the rotation transmitted from the sewing machine drive begins.

The design provides for another option. If the lower thread suddenly ends, you can use the end taken directly from the needle. Most importantly, do not forget to pull it out of your ear before doing this. After that, repeat the algorithm described above.

technika.expert

Do-it-yourself sewing machine repair: detailed instructions with photos

Sewing machines do not lose their popularity even in the twenty-first century. Those who were born in the Soviet era remember that girls were taught from childhood to sew various things, from gloves to jackets and coats.

During the Soviet era, most people did sewing machine repairs themselves. Even today, those who attend sewing courses understand that it is better to repair a sewing machine on their own than to take it to a service center:

• Firstly, companies that repair sewing machines require quite a lot of money from their customers for the services they provide.
• Secondly, even modern machines can be sorted out in a matter of hours, you just need to carefully approach this issue, and in the future this will allow you to repair sewing machines without involving third parties.

Basic rules for operating a sewing machine

Let's look at the basic rules for operating sewing machines:

• Sewing equipment should not be located near batteries and heaters. But at the same time, it should be in a dry room, in which there are no signs of dampness;
• Before starting work, it is necessary to select the necessary materials and tools, needles and threads that will be needed in the process of work;
• Before you start sewing, you need to make sure that the needle and thread guide are in the up position;
• Remember that the sewing machine needs to be helped at the moment of sewing, pulling the matter towards itself;
• After the sewing work is finished, raise the presser foot and pull out the fabric. Next, cut the thread, finding a free end in it in advance, the length of which will be equal to a maximum of seven, but a minimum of five centimeters.

Problems with sewing machines

There are rules and they must be followed. The use of quality materials and additional tools minimizes the occurrence of problems and malfunctions when working with sewing machines. Therefore, the following causes of malfunctions are the most common:

1. Thread break. A break can occur in both the upper and lower threads. In the first case, the problem is related to the selection of low-quality threads or the wrong size of the needle. In the second case, the problem of a malfunctioning sewing machine may be due to irregularities, the presence of burrs on the bobbins, and incorrect winding of the thread.
2. Problems with tissue advancement. If such a problem occurs, you need to carefully look at the position of the teeth. If they are pulled up or lowered to the bottom, then it is required to bring them to a normal state;
3. Cutting through fabric. If such a problem occurs, in order to fix the machine, we need to reduce the pressure of the presser foot, and check the condition of the needle, it may be too blunt.

See also: Blender repair: disassemble and repair with your own hands

Serious problem - knocking sewing machine

The above problems are not serious, and are eliminated in a matter of minutes. But there are some types of problems that occur infrequently. Therefore, repairing sewing machines with your own hands, if they occur, will take a lot of time.

The most difficult, most serious breakdown should be considered the appearance of a knock during the operation of the sewing machine. To solve this problem, it is necessary to pull the flywheel several times, and do it in accordance with the axial direction of the machine.

In order to repair the sewing machine, it must be disassembled. We disassemble the sewing machine in the following sequence:

1. Remove RP (manual drive). It is necessary to remember its location, this will subsequently allow you to assemble a sewing machine in a short period of time;
2. Unscrew the limiter from the nut, which is a classic screw. It is under a manual drive, at the time of assembly it must be screwed back to its original location;
3. Remove flywheel. This must be done carefully, avoiding damage to it, in the event of a flywheel malfunction after assembling the machine, you need to see if everything is in order with it;
4. Remove the bobbin that looks like a cone. It is located below, after the flywheel. It will not be difficult to find her;
5. Remove the bushing from the shaft base;
6. Put a tin washer on the shaft. You can make such a washer very simply, just cut the bottom of the tin can.

The washer in 40% of cases is the key to high-quality work using a sewing machine. Sometimes adding it to the machine is enough to solve the problem, but this does not always happen. When the sewing machines are being adjusted, in 60-70% of cases it is necessary to turn the rail 180 degrees.

See also: Microwave oven works but does not heat food: what to do?

The needle is the key part of the sewing machine.

Needles are the basic elements that make a sewing machine work. From what needle will be chosen, its further work depends. If a defective needle is selected, then the occurrence of the above problems is not a rare case, because the needle is the basis, and without it it is impossible to sew a single thing.

Therefore, when choosing a needle, you must carefully consider its size and thickness. You also need to check the numbering of the needle if any complicated sewing work is being done, otherwise it may happen that the thing will not turn out the way you imagined it before.

There is another problem in which the wrong choice of needle can lead to stretching and tissue damage. If the needle is too thick and the fabric is thin, then you cannot use the needle with such a fabric, otherwise it will break.

See also: How to repair a thermopot yourself

Using too thick fabric with a small needle size may cause the needle to break. In order to sew something from a compacted fabric, you need to choose a thicker needle, if it is not available at home, then go to the store and purchase it. Before that, measure the thickness of the fabric in advance - this will allow you to pick up a needle in the store in a shorter time, you will need to tell the seller the thickness of the fabric, and he will independently select the needle of the size you need for you.

www.techrevizor.ru

How to repair a sewing machine yourself?

Sewing original and much-needed things on your own is great, especially if you know how to use a sewing machine. Everyone who had a good old “Seagull” at home wondered how to repair a sewing machine on their own? Oddly enough, doing this is quite simple, especially if you know the cause of the problem. And in order to find out the reason for their appearance, read this article, which contains all the material on this topic.

natural wear and tear

During her life, she makes hundreds of thousands of tissue punctures, and no one says that this is always light and thin tissue. Therefore, it is quite logical that the point of the needle becomes dull, and the needle itself can bend.

Important! Do you pay attention to it? At first glance, the needle is intact, which means that everything is fine with it. But use a magnifying glass and inspect its tip - the blade will be bent in any direction, and how will such a tip accurately pierce the fabric? No way, just break through it.

Now let's see how such a needle forms a stitch. The thread, which is in the eye of the needle, clings to the curved point, slows down, thereby forming an excess of the upper thread inside the stitch. This is one of the reasons why loops appear in a string.

Important! In addition, a bent point will cause intermittent thread breakage, especially in areas that are difficult to sew when the top thread is extremely tight.

Based on this, we understand that sometimes the whole process of repairing a sewing machine consists in a simple replacement of the needle.

Improper installation and use

Another reason for the sewing machine to malfunction is the incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar, especially this problem is typical for older machines:

• The blade of the needle must always be on the side of the hook nose. Remove the needle plate and see if this is really the case, if the machine for no reason began to wind, tear the thread.
• It often happens that seamstresses install a needle in a home sewing machine that is designed for industrial sewing machines. It is impossible to confuse an industrial needle with a homemade needle. Household needles have special cuts on the flask. But despite this, industrial needles are installed.

Important! Under no circumstances should you make this mistake:

• Firstly, you will damage the gap between the head of the needle and the nose of the hook, hence the gaps in the stitches begin.
• Secondly, you are very much at risk of damaging the hook of your sewing machine.

Some of the industrial needles are noticeably longer than domestic ones, and can touch the surface of the shuttle, scratch it, even damage the shuttle itself.

• All sewing equipment should not be near batteries, as well as heaters. But at the same time, it must necessarily be inside a dry room, in which there are no signs of dampness.
• Before starting the work itself, you must select the materials and tools necessary for the work, threads, needles. By clicking on the link, you will learn how to fill the sewing machine.
• Before you start sewing, make sure that the thread guide and the needle itself are in the up position.
• Always remember that the sewing machine needs to be assisted while sewing by pulling the material towards itself.
• After finishing work, raise the presser foot, then pull out the fabric. Then cut the thread. In advance, find her free end, a maximum length of 7, but a minimum of 5 cm.

Important! For those who love to sew, sooner or later there is a need to purchase an overlocker. Our separate review “How to choose an overlock?” will help you.

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What are the problems with sewing machines?

There are rules and they must be followed. The use of additional tools and quality materials reduces the chance of problems and malfunctions while working with sewing machines to a minimum. That is why the following reasons, which led to malfunctions and the need to repair the sewing machine yourself, are the most common.

Thread break

This trouble occurs with both the upper and lower threads:

• In the first case, the malfunction is associated with the selection of poor-quality thread or the wrong size of the needle.
• In the second case, the malfunction is associated with irregularities, the presence of burrs on the bobbins, as well as improper winding of the thread.

Important! Do you want to sew a new beautiful knitted skirt? You will find about the features of this type of fabric, the rules for working with it and a lot of other useful information with sewing instructions in our article “How to sew a jersey skirt?”.

Trouble with advancing cloth

If you have a similar problem, you should carefully examine the position of the teeth. If they are lowered down or taken away, then bring them to their normal position. As you can see, often in case of malfunctions, no complex repair of the sewing machine is required.

cutting through tissue

If you have such a problem, then in order to repair the sewing machine, you need to reduce the presser foot pressure, and then check the condition of the needle. It's possible that she's too dumb.

Important! Update your wardrobe! Treat yourself to a new culotte. For detailed sewing instructions, see our master class "How to sew a skirt-trousers with your own hands?".

Machine care:

• After a long period of work, you must clean the bobbin section and other accessible places from lint, dust, and oil stains. Periodically clean the shuttle itself, with a hard hair brush, the shuttle mechanism.
• Lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubrication, run it a little idle, especially if the machine just stood there for a long time. During operation, the oil will heat up slightly and penetrate much better into friction points and knots.
• A fierce enemy of absolutely all mechanisms are rust and dirt. So try to keep your car in a cool and dry place.
• If the machine is not going to be used for a long time, make sure that dust does not get into it. Otherwise, the oil from dust will harden, and the machine will turn poorly, or even jam.

Important! It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe, then instill small drops into places accessible to you where metal parts are rubbing.

Important! Love to wear dresses? Learn about a very practical model - a-line dress.

Important! Just the same, the fastening of the tension regulator is most often the cause of poor performance. The plastic case is pressed through under the influence of the screw, over time the tensioner begins to stagger or even falls out of the case.

To fix this, unscrew the screw slightly, adjust its position, make sure that the groove and the needle blade have the correct location in relation to the hook itself.

Important! The parka is a versatile garment. It can be worn with both jeans and an evening dress. Can't find the right model for sale? Follow the link and follow the steps of the master class to sew a parka with your own hands.

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Setting the interaction of the needle and spout:

• Calibration of the shuttle mechanisms of sewing machines "Chaika", "Podolsk", "Veritas" and so on, which perform a zigzag stitch, involves setting the position of the looper nose higher than the eye of the needle by 1, 2, 3 mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle itself .

Important! This parameter is checked when the sewing machine is not only sewing straight stitches.

• The nose of the shuttle must at the same time pass almost next to the blade of your needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form stitches without gaps. Loosen the screw with a 10 wrench, at the same time hold the flywheel with your hand, turn the shaft along with the shuttle itself, adjusting the position of the shuttle nose to the needle.

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footage

In this article, we looked at the most common problems with the sewing machine, and told you how to fix this or that situation. We hope, thanks to this information, from now on you will not have problems with sewing, and all the masterpieces you have planned will turn out as intended by design, and in good quality.

serviceyard.net

How to take apart a sewing machine - Easy

How to disassemble a sewing machine

To learn or at least see a photo of how a modern sewing machine works is not only informative, but also useful. Be sure to read this series of articles on the repair of modern household sewing machines. A visual representation of the design of the sewing machine will help you make the right choice when buying it, and will also make you take care of it later.

It is quite difficult to disassemble a modern sewing machine on your own, but in most cases you will not have to do this. But still there are cases when you have to disassemble the sewing machine yourself. For example, when you need to replace the electric drive, a line does not form, the needle breaks, etc., and there is no way to contact the workshop, because it simply does not exist in your city or village.

In this article, you will learn how to properly disassemble (remove) the plastic covers of a modern household sewing machine of an ordinary inexpensive model from Brother, Janome and any other.

1. What tools are needed

Almost all models of modern economy-class household machines are assembled in China, and therefore, in order to disconnect the plastic parts of the case, you only need Phillips screwdrivers. One screwdriver should have a Phillips slot for medium-sized screws and one slightly more powerful, even with a flat slot.

Screws for machines of European assembly (sometimes Taiwanese) often have some feature. You can unscrew them only with a special screwdriver (asterisk) with a special slot. First, look at what kind of screwdriver you can unscrew the case mount, you may have to buy it in a store specifically for this. This photo shows types of modern screwdrivers and screws. By the way, we will disassemble the sewing machine, which is in the foreground. It is called "Dragonfly" - China. Its body is assembled on ordinary cruciform screws.

2. Before disassembling the machine

First, remove all parts that do not require special tools. Start with the removable table, then detach the foot. Remove the needle plate. To do this, with a flat screwdriver, you need to unscrew only one screw (sometimes two). Naturally, you need to pull out the bobbin and the plastic hook or bobbin case. remove the coil and in order not to get hurt, it does not hurt to remove the needle. Now you need to unscrew the screw indicated by the arrow in the photo and carefully remove the front cover. There is a special latch at the top of the cover, you need to unfasten it before "pulling it out" by force.

All screws do not need to be put in one "heap". When you start to assemble back, it will be difficult for you to determine which screw and where it was. Therefore, mark them in any way convenient for you. For example, you can put a piece of paper with a mark next to each screw (s).

3. We begin to disassemble the sewing machine

Now let's start disassembling the sewing machine, or rather disconnect its plastic case, consisting of two halves. But first remove the shuttle cover. To do this, unscrew the screws indicated by the arrows. As well as the front cover, this part, in addition to screws, is also attached to the latches. To loosen them, you need to insert a screwdriver into the slot and try to gently slide the cover to the left. On the reverse side, where the flywheel is located, remove the stitch selection knob. Just pull it hard to the right. Immediately pay attention to how it stood, so that it is easier to install it back.

And two more types of fastening are located in the lower part of the machine body. For many models of sewing machines, rubber feet in the lower part of the body are also fastening the plastic case to the metal frame of the sewing machine. In any case, for this model of the machine, two rear legs serve as such a mount. But since we will be removing only the front of the case, unscrew only one leg (upper right).

For all sewing machines of this class, it is imperative to release the mount indicated in the photo by the letter (A). Moreover, both screws do not need to be unscrewed, it is enough to release only the front side cover. In this case, you need to unscrew the top screw.

4. Unscrew the most inaccessible screw

The last, but most inconspicuous screw (B) remains. It is located in the depth of the front of the machine. Even at high magnification, it is not visible in the photo. That screw, which is so clearly visible, does not need to be unscrewed. This is the top thread tensioner. By the way, it remains in place after removing the cover. Consider this moment and do not try to remove it. Actually, it is not difficult to unscrew the screw itself, it will be much more difficult to put it back. Therefore, hold the screwdriver on the magnet for a while, this will help you later.

Now you can remove the front cover, although it should be noted that other models may have an additional mount, but the principle is approximately the same. Look carefully, your machine may have an additional mount at the bottom of the case. It happens that the fastening of the covers is hidden by plugs. Pry off the plug on the back of the machine with a knife blade and make sure there is no additional fastening there.

By the way, it is with the help of a knife that you will have to remove the cover, since in addition to the screws on the ends of the covers there are latches. Insert the knife blade between the body ladles and carefully try to push them apart by moving the latches. But it’s difficult to immediately determine where they are located, so please be patient if you really decide that you definitely need to disassemble the sewing machine.

5. How to separate the two parts of the body

This is approximately the "picture" you will see when you can disassemble your sewing machine. It is probably worth noting that the most difficult thing is not to find all the screws that secure the covers to the case and to each other. It is very difficult to carefully remove the covers, disconnect their latches. If this is done in a hurry, then you can damage the plastic, which will spoil not only the appearance of the machine, but will also interfere with work. Rough parts in the area of ​​the sleeve of the machine will cling to fabrics and even form puffs.

It is important to firmly decide whether you need to disassemble the machine yourself or not. If there is no other option, then be patient and attentive. Well, why do we need to disassemble it, we have already mentioned above, but we will understand in more detail in other articles.

The device of a modern sewing machine How does a modern household sewing machine with an electric drive work. The main malfunctions of units and mechanisms.

How to disassemble the machine and replace the electric drive Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble the sewing machine, or rather remove the plastic case of the machine in order to gain access to some nodes. This need is very rare and only occurs when the sewing machine motor or drive belt needs to be replaced.

The electric drive of the sewing machine Just like the pedal, the electric motor should not be repaired by yourself. Moreover, there is nothing to repair there. The engine either works or it doesn't. If it does not work, and you know for sure that there is no other reason for this, then it needs to be replaced.

Device for winding thread on a bobbin Such a "trifle" as winding thread on a bobbin often creates a lot of inconvenience. For some reason, it is not always possible to quickly and "without problems" do this. Let's see why it is sometimes difficult to wind the thread on the bobbin and what needs to be done to eliminate minor damage to the winder.

Sewing machine Veritas Rubina The opinion of the master about which sewing machine is the best. Details about the used Rubin sewing machine and other old Veritas models.

How to properly lubricate the overlock Sometimes, you need to remove the covers of the overlock and lubricate all the rubbing parts inside the case. What you need to pay attention to and how to do it yourself.

How the sewing pedal is arranged We do not recommend repairing the sewing pedal on your own. We only give tips on how to prevent it from breaking. The most common cause of pedal failure is its long wires.

http://www.sewing-master.ru

legkoe-delo.ru

How to use a sewing machine

Today, when the choice of manual and compact sewing machines is large enough, anyone can learn the basics of tailoring. And, if there are no problems with the purchase of the unit, then in order to understand how to use the sewing machine, it may take enough time and patience. The efforts made will more than pay off when you can not only skillfully repair your things, but also pamper yourself with products of exclusive patterns and designs.

In this article, we will try to simplify the process of mastering the art of sewing for you as much as possible, as well as introduce you to the main nuances of all stages: from threading to sewing.

Let's look at the instructions

Regardless of which machine you buy (manual, mini, foot, electric ...), it comes with instructions in several languages. Ask the seller if the instructions contain explanations in a language you understand. The same applies to the purchase of a typewriter from your hands - ask for instructions so that in any incomprehensible situation you have somewhere to turn for help.

Of course, if you are dealing with an old, even rare model from Singer or Podolsk, in most cases you will have to understand the intricacies of their work without documents. But the main advantage of old machines over modern ones is their simplicity and reliability of mechanisms, and operating recommendations are easy to find in any “classic” book on sewing and cutting.

When studying the instructions, pay special attention to what should never be done with the machine: keeping the tool in working order will be the first step towards mastering the sewing business.

The process of operating a modern sewing machine (including mini machines) is simplified as much as possible, and each detail in them is located in a strictly designated place and performs a specific action.

Learning to drive a car

Before sewing, the machine must be properly primed. And it doesn't matter what kind of machine you are dealing with: mini or manual, foot or old - without a coil, it is of no use. Let's start with the upper thread, which must be threaded through a series of holes in a strictly established sequence.

Having captured the end of the thread, we run it through a miniature window on the back of the device, after which we go into the tension regulator, follow through a couple of loops and, finally, we reach the needle. The procedure for refueling your model of the machine, established in the instructions, should in no case be violated. Otherwise, the risk of fraying the thread and disrupting the operation of the entire device will increase.

Remember: on the body of every modern machine (even manual or mini) there are symbols and arrows that help you navigate and quickly understand how and where the thread is threaded.

Now let's move on to the second step - threading the shuttle (a device into which a bobbin with thread is inserted). Regardless of the type and model of the machine, the bobbin is installed in the shuttle in such a way that the thread comes out clockwise. To facilitate the work and significantly save the time of craftswomen, manufacturers today produce not only coils, but also ready-made bobbins with wound threads. The main thing is to achieve the same thickness and quality of the upper and lower threads.

We put a needle

Ask how to insert a needle into your machine. Get a set of different sewing machine needles: with only one needle, you will not be able to work with fabrics of different thicknesses. Needlework magazines or specialized formulas will help you find information about which needle and which threads will be needed to make the product you are interested in. Adhering to each recommendation from the instructions, install the needle in the place intended for it and remember how you did it. If the needle is installed incorrectly, there will be a chance of it flying out during high-speed sewing, or tearing the fabric and threads.

Before sewing

Determine and remember where the thread tension regulators are (especially the top one) and the lever (wheel) that sets the stitch length (the interval between two adjacent fabric punctures, usually measured in millimeters). Find out what types of stitches your machine can do (zigzag, patterned, etc.), how to switch between them, whether buttonholes are available. Install the device so that you feel comfortable at the intended workplace. When working with a manual machine, the fabric is held with the left hand, and the handle is turned with the right (for left-handed people, it is the other way around). In the case of a foot drive, both hands are freed, and you have more control over the sewing process.

Before proceeding with the manufacture (or repair) of a large product, adjust the device and test the quality of the seam on a small patch of the same material.

Features of using a mini sewing machine

Advantages of a mini sewing machine:

• Compactness;
• Lack of many mechanisms;
• Ease of operation;
• Independent setting of the stitch interval.

Compactness is the main advantage of this device. You can take it with you on the road, and if necessary, repair things, because using a mini machine is very simple. Following the simple instructions, thread the thread into the mechanism and immediately start sewing! With it, you don’t have to mess with the installation of the shuttle, wind the bobbin and delve into the device for a long time. Using only one thread, we hold the machine in our hand and, working in the same way as with a stapler, we make stitch by stitch, independently choosing their intervals.

It will also be indispensable for small repairs of curtains, which can be done on the spot without removing the curtains from the eaves.

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Have you noticed what magic and charm vintage items have? It is no coincidence that they are in high demand these days. They manage to make the interiors of cafes and restaurants, business offices and offices stylish, and soulful houses and apartments.

Each little thing "from stories" can become an interior decoration. The ordinary sewing machine also has great potential. If you still have it in your closet, see how you can use it differently.

How to use old sewing machines

You can still use your old grandmother's typewriter! But if it’s more convenient for you to sew on a modern electric one, then manual mechanism will decorate the room.

Moreover, it will easily fit into any space: living room, bedroom or needlewoman's work area. In this case, the old machine will serve not only as an accessory, but also as a kind of organizer for storing sewing supplies.

Designers use such mechanisms both in a special case-case and without it. Of course, the machine itself needs to be carefully processed.

You can also carry out the staining procedure, use decoupage technology. The original idea would be the arrangement on the surface of the ornament in the form of flowers, geometric patterns.

Capabilities of foot sewing machines

Well, if you got a foot sewing machine - even more lucky! It can be used in everyday life, when decorating a bathroom, bedroom, kitchen, cottage or garden. The main thing in the process is to connect imagination, show originality and some design skills.

In this case, you can use both the product as a whole and its individual parts.

What can be done from an old sewing machine

There are many ideas for using vintage devices.

Tables and tables

Different types of tables have become very popular. The sewing unit itself in this case is removed, leaving the work surface.

Often the old surface is replaced with a more modern countertop, using only the legs.

By adding a small glass coating, you can get original coffee table to decorate the living room.

Sturdy wooden or stone coverings will help to collect a small table for kitchen. It is useful for storing cutlery, towels.

Advice: using large-sized coatings, you can build a spacious dining table for several people.

With the small size of the room with the help of such a table, you can arrange working area. A foot pedal will help in a more comfortable placement of the legs in the process of working with important documents.

A win-win option would be placement in the bedroom as a dressing table. The sides are complemented by several drawers for storing jewelry and cosmetics. One or more doors with a mirror are placed on the table.

Important! The difference between such household furniture is not only originality, but also versatility. Depending on the design, such a table will harmoniously fit into any style of interior.

coasters

Unnecessary foot-operated unit useful as a stand. Here you can place a small collection of books or souvenirs.

Houseplant lovers use it to arrange flower pots.

When adding a zone with several drawers or slats, you get a bright rack for storing bed linen and bedspreads.

Sewing machine in the bathroom?

Yes, yes, and in the bathroom too! This option will be appreciated by fans of the interior, decorated in retro or Provence style.

In this case, a sink is mounted in the work surface. The basis for it are the legs of the sewing machine. Such a sink can be decorated in any style, as well as additionally decorate the legs with an ornament.

Use in the country

For a country house, there are also many options.

A capacious box is placed on the surface, which in the garden will serve as an original flower bed for your favorite flowers.

And by replacing the wooden surface with stable and strong materials, you can get a creative brazier.

Addition: in a country house or gazebo, the option using the vintage table described above is also useful.

Have you already figured out how you will use the sewing tool inherited from your grandmother? Or maybe even come up with your own way? Your machine will cope with any plan and will become a real "highlight" of your interior.

General acquaintance with the Podolsk-2M sewing machine

The machine appeared in the USSR around the end of the 50s of the last century and was almost a complete analogue
American typewriter Singer 15th series. This is a straight stitch machine common for that time, extremely simple in design and has unsurpassed reliability. The body is cast iron, all parts are made of durable technical steel, which was incredibly abundant in the USSR after the war and steel production grew. The machine has only one "critical" setting (the lower needle bar reach - a setting that affects the performance in principle), and two "non-critical" settings - the tension of the upper and lower threads - which only affect the quality of the stitch. It is enough to lubricate the machine at check points only once or twice a year and continue to work without problems.

Machine drive

Initially, the machine came in two layouts - a desktop manual and a nightstand (foot) version. Over time, small 100-watt motors with a very simple mount and controlled by a pedal began to be produced for the desktop version (and for the bedside table as well). The pedal inside has 2 positions - at the initial moment of pressing, the power goes through a nichrome spiral (rheostat), which sharply reduces the speed, but reduces the engine torque, and when you further press the pedal, the power goes to the engine directly, bypassing the rheostat, which achieves maximum speed (6000 rpm) and maximum engine torque.

How to remake for sewing leather?

In its basic configuration, the machine is designed for sewing with 60 threads and a No. 90 needle, i.e. designed to sew cotton fabrics, jeans and the like. And this despite the fact that the machine has a 100-fold margin of safety. But this fact was previously of little interest to anyone, because. the skin was inaccessible and there was no particular need for such a rework.

But today the situation has changed. There was a lot of leather, a lot of cheap excellent soles, i.e. the field for shoe creativity is boundless. The only limiter, oddly enough, was the lack of suitable compact sewing equipment. And although there was talk about the fact that Podolsk and Singer sewed leather without difficulty, few people seriously approached this. In the last year or two, videos about the leather superpowers of the machine have begun to appear on the Internet. Therefore, I decided to try this option, too. I sold my industrial machine, which occupied half a room, and was on the verge of abandoning this hobby. Expectations were justified, and now I have the opportunity to continue. But let's get down to business.

Attention! Read the captions for the photos carefully.

If something is not clear, ask in the comments to the video on YouTube. On the site, I did not put comments, so as not to spam.

I will accompany my story with photographs. (Click on photos to enlarge)

First change- if your machine is not the very first releases that came with just such huge 9-spoke pulleys, then find such a pulley at a flea market in spare parts for seamstresses and replace it. In manual mode, in any case, you will have to help very often, and on a small pulley it is very dreary. At the same time, he also has a 1mm larger diameter of the groove for the belt - a trifle, of course, but there will be more torque by a drop.	Second change- the motor is not a conventional motor for household sewing machines (90 W), but a motor for overlockers (250 W). It is sold in the same place, in sewing supplies stores and in the same places where sewing machines are sold. Chinese, but the masters praise him.	These are the characteristics of this engine on the plate above. Attention! If you come across a motor with reverse rotation, do not be discouraged - open the motor, and you will see that a pair of small diodes are soldered to the brushes - pick up a soldering iron and turn each diode back to front - and that's it.
A general view of the roller foot, which will allow you to make such smooth and, most importantly, precise, even seams.	So, the 3rd change - we buy a roller and install it. No modifications will be required. On the little things - you will have to slightly shove the seat on the roller itself with a needle file - it climbed very tight for me - this is not difficult, because. everything is made of aluminum; the roller rested on it.	4th change - firstly, you need to replace the needle holder with such a small one, which went on the Zinger prototypes of Podolsk and on the first issues of Podolsk, later enlarged needle holders were installed on Podolsky (see photo below), which prevent the roller from getting close to the needle. But at the end of this article, it dawned on me how it was possible to grind my own and not bathe (read below, near the last photos). Secondly, when landing a reduced needle holder, it will be necessary to remove the needle bar (it is simply removed with one screw) and grind its tip on an emery or file so that a reduced needle holder fits on it.
The roller for the possibility of replacing the needle turns up.	With this screw, which I now twist with a screwdriver, the roller is screwed on.	Filmed - no problem.
5th change. We put a needle number 130 for the skin. In addition to being generally thicker, it also has special grooves for a thick thread.	This is what the native needle holder and standard foot look like.	There are two needle holders in front of you - Singer's (small) on top, and native (large) on the bottom. You need to find either a Singer one at a flea market (although sometimes they don’t want to sell it separately from the whole machine), or grind a little native (see below, near the last photos)
The same in magnification	That's what's important - when you put a reduced needle holder, you will need to grind the tip of the needle bar from the front side, where there is a groove for the needle. To allow the needle bar to move to the right without interfering with the roller.	Here is also a trifle that will need to be done - because. the roller is 2 times larger than the paw, then you will need to remove the front chrome cover (attached to the muzzle with one screw), then loosen the screw, which I point with my finger at and raise the entire stem up to the desired height (attach the roller and see for yourself), then tighten the screw again.
After raising the rod for the foot, it will stick out from above by a couple of centimeters.	I already wrote about the needle - I need No. 130	After installing the roller, it remains to adjust the gap between the roller and the needle with this adjusting screw with a nut. I believe that in the lowered position, there should be approximately 1 mm between the bottom edge of the roller and the needle. (But here I'm not sure that this is correct, it was just cool and convenient for me to sew with just such a gap.)
But how can you do without buying a Singer needle holder. In the picture, I sharpened the lower native needle holder on emery - I removed about 1 mm from the front (which is towards the roller), and secondly, I shortened its “throat” by 2 mm - where the needle shows, there used to be somewhere 4 mm, about 2 -X.	Top view of the turned native needle holder. Compare on the top photos how it looked before turning.	And finally, the last 6th change. Improvement of the upper thread tensioner. When sewing leather, the standard tension, which is provided by this powerful spring, is not enough, so the master, whom I called when setting it up, firstly threw out the small spring altogether - we won’t need it at all now, and took the large spring in 2 hands and stretched it somewhere then 1 cm (clearly visible in the next photo). After that, the tension force almost doubled. It is this strong tension that we need.
This is the size the spring should be after stretching.

That's all that needs to be done to rebuild the machine for sewing leather.

Alteration result:

A total of 6 changes were required:

• 1. Install the big pulley
• 2. We put a powerful 250 W motor (overlock).
• 3. We put the roller (at the same time we grind the front panel, raise the stem of the foot and undermine the seat on the roller itself with a needle file.)
• 4. We buy a reduced or we grind our own needle holder (in this case, in both cases, you need to remove the needle bar and grind its tip from the front).
• 5. We put the needle number 130
• 6. We stretch the thick spring of the tensioner, and we completely throw away the small one.

I suggest you watch 2 video reviews of this particular sewing machine after the alteration. In the first, I say that it is better to sew the skin in manual mode - after all, I was not completely sure of the engine's abilities - I thought I would burn the engine. But after watching a sufficient number of videos on YouTube how the Americans smartly sew leather on the same Singer-1591 with engines, I took out my engine, installed it, tested it, calmed down and made a second review. So:

Overview of the sewing machine Podolsk-2M for sewing leather in manual mode

And here is the second review, which I shot after testing the machine with the engine. I remind you once again that this engine is not for a sewing machine, although it is the same in size, but for overlockers - 250 watts, in which I had to turn the diodes with a soldering iron so that it spins in the right direction.

Overview of the Podolsk-2M sewing machine for sewing leather using a 250 W motor.

This concludes my story about a very successful, in my opinion, technique that will allow us to realize any plans for tailoring any footwear, up to tarpaulin boots.

Hello everyone from sunny Tashkent! I'll start with a little background. DIY leather started relatively recently and immediately fell in love with this new kind of hobby. In the course of work, I encountered some difficulties associated with the lack of a tool. We have it for some reason in a catastrophic deficit. In this regard, something had to be ordered in Russia, something to local turners, and something to be made by yourself. Everyone who has ever sewed leather or repaired a leather product, be it a bag or a wallet, faced the problem of sewing with a simple needle. Making a hole in high-quality leather is quite problematic even with an awl, not to mention a simple tailor's needle. I tried to clamp an ordinary needle into a collet clamp with the eye forward and stitch it in this way, having previously pierced the holes with an awl, but at the same time the thread very quickly “wrinkled”, twisted and tangled, which just pissed me off. So I thought about how to adapt a needle from an ordinary sewing machine to this business. The threads remained intact, but the needle turned out to be very fragile and any wrong hand movement led to the fact that it broke. So I returned to the principle of "an awl - a gypsy needle." But one night, while surfing the vast Internet, I came across a very interesting specimen. But killed the price and the waiting time for the order. And then it hit me like an electric shock ... My hands, as they say, grow from the right place and I decided to portray “this miracle” while sitting at home, while away the long winter evenings.

Well... Get to the point!!!

Rummaging in the bins of a cabinet with junk, I collected all sorts of little things that had been lying around for years and were waiting in the wings. As a basis, I took my own awl with a collet clamp, which served for more than one year.

Grieving with his heart, he pulled the collet out of the pen. The handle broke at the same time ... ;-(

I installed a No. 250 needle from an industrial leather sewing machine, passed the thread through the collet to make sure that it moves freely and the collet does not need to be finalized.

At a flea market, I accidentally found a spool from a sewing machine of unknown origin and of some absolutely incredible size - almost 4 cm(what sizes the shuttle should be under it and the total size of the sewing machine is generally hard to imagine). In the same place I bought a file handle made of wood of an unknown species, the wood is very hard and unusually smelly ... But the main thing is hard. Let's go further...

I cut off the excess from the handle and the base of the collet. Do not pay attention to the copper wire brackets, I wanted to make the base of the fastening out of them, but subsequently abandoned this idea.

For the basis decided to take 2 metal plates.

Soldered them in the shape of a letter P, made cuts in the handle, inserted them there and, for reliability, secured everything with self-tapping screws from the sides for greater strength. It remains only to drill a hole from above under the base of the collet. But ... It wasn’t there ... The metal is soft, the metal strips are narrow, the diameter of the drill is large ... As they say: “cause and effect” ... The drill bit and twisted one mount with guts, and also cut his hand ...

Well ... The first pancake is lumpy. But the Russians don't give up!!! We lick our wounds and move on. Found another piece of iron. All soldered, it seems to have turned out well.

For the convenience of removing the spool, I decided to make a screw with a thickening to unscrew it manually, and not with a screwdriver, as in the original.

It remains to process everything with needle files and attach to the handle. But the provocateur in the subcortex whispered that some kind of pornography was being obtained ... I climbed to look for another piece of iron. As the saying goes: “he who seeks will always find” and FOUND!!! I won’t describe the whole process again, because it’s long and not censorship at all ... I’ll only add that during assembly I filled all the fasteners with epoxy, processed the handle with fine sandpaper, went nuts again from the smell of wood, covered it with stain and sprayed it with automotive varnish from a can.

AND HERE IT IS IN ALL THE GREAT!!!

You may have noticed that it is a little crooked relative to the central axis, but this is done on purpose, for convenience while sewing. In addition, a ring is soldered under the index finger.

In the hand lies like a glove.

And finally, testing!

Just wonderful!!! Cowhide thick 4 mm in two layers it is stitched with a bang, without first piercing with an awl !!! The needle goes in like butter.

I unraveled the seam and checked the thread. It is absolutely whole, does not “mohrits”, does not get confused and does not twist, as when sewing with a needle. Goal achieved!!!

Now the prices, what for:

1. Handle with collet. Approximately 3$. You can find cheaper, mine had an ebonite pen.

2. Spool. Approximately $1.5.

3. File handle. Approximately 0.5$.

4. Sewing needle No. 250. About $ 2 for 12 pieces.

5. Fantasy, a little skill, free time, patience, just in case, save up magic words for a neighbor who comes to complain about the knocking and sounds of a drill.

Total… About 7$. Why do the bourgeoisie want $35... For an idea???

Thank you all for your attention and for taking the time to read my article. Also, don't be afraid to experiment! Only those who do nothing do not make mistakes. Don't Forget About Safety, take care of yourself and everything will be brainy and noble for you !!! Good luck!

Many who are fond of tailoring very often have to work with natural and artificial leather. Handmade bags, leather jewelry, various crafts and even leather paintings look very original and stylish. But most often, work with leather is associated with the repair of leather clothing, the replacement of zippers, the restoration of torn areas, etc.

There are many books on learning the technique of sewing genuine leather by hand or on a sewing machine, which describe in detail the purpose of certain tools for working with leather.
I offer only a few basic recommendations that will be useful to anyone who decides to repair a bag, jacket, etc.

In this video you will see how easy it is to sew leather on an industrial sewing machine (or Podolsk type) by installing a Teflon foot on it.

Working with leather has a lot of its "secrets" and little things that you need to know and take into account. For example, when cutting out paired parts, you need to remember that the skin stretches more in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction, so paired parts must be cut in any, but only in the same direction.

It is impossible to chip the skin with pins. There are traces of punctures on the skin, and if you change the zipper in a leather jacket or bag or jacket, you can easily see this.

Soft leather can be sewn on a sewing machine with a regular #80 or #90 needle. But for sewing rough leather or thickened areas, a special needle for working with leather is required. Even for hand sewing leather, the leather needle looks special, instead of a point, it has a triangular tip.
The stitch length of the sewing machine when sewing leather should not be too small, as with frequent punctures, the leather will tear at the junctions.

You need to cut the skin with a special shoe knife on a plastic board or plexiglass. You can also use a wooden surface, but then the knife edge will cut into the tree.
A shoe knife, rubber glue, adhesive seam enhancers, a thimble, strong synthetic threads and a small hammer with an awl are a must-have kit for any home furrier who decides to replace a zipper in a bag or repair a torn section of a leather jacket.

What sewing machine can sew leather

Not every sewing machine can sew leather, treat your sewing machine with care and do not try to sew thick and coarse fabrics, leather products, especially bags on it. In extreme cases, you can use a Podolsk or Singer manual sewing machine, but not modern seamstresses, at a cost of 5 thousand rubles.
To work with leather, special sewing machines of industrial design are provided, or, in extreme cases, the instructions should indicate that leather clothes can be sewn on this machine.

If you sew leather on a household sewing machine, then be sure to buy special needles and a foot, with a wheel (as in the photo) or a roller. Then the skin under the foot will not "slip" and the machine will easily advance the product without forming a fit of the upper layer of the skin.

If you don’t have a foot or it doesn’t fit (Podolsk sewing machine), then in order for the skin to move under the foot more easily, you can sew it through thin paper, which is then easy to remove.

Threads for a sewing machine need to be taken strong and elastic. But only nylon threads (as in this photo) are not intended for sewing on a typewriter. They are only used for handmade leather or industrial sewing machines.

How to sew a women's bag from genuine leather. Bag with lining and zip fastening. You will learn many useful tips on how to work with genuine leather.

Technology of sewing genuine leather and suede

When sewing suede products, you need to take into account the direction of the pile, otherwise the details will have a different shade.
The skin is ironed from the wrong side with a non-hot iron without steam through a dry cloth.
To prevent the upper part from stretching relative to the other, purchase a special foot with a Teflon-coated sole, as in this photo. Teflon feet cost much less than special feet for leather.
The ends of the seam threads must be securely fixed with several knots, since machine stitches on leather products do not bartack and therefore they tend to unravel easily.

Working with leather is impossible without glue. The adhesive is applied with a brush on a cleaned and degreased surface. Universal adhesives such as PVA and Moment, as well as rubber glue, are very effective.
Repeat the procedure with the application of glue several times in order to thoroughly impregnate the skin. At the same time, take care in advance that the glue is not too liquid, otherwise the skin will get wet.
Set the parts treated with glue aside until the adhesive dries "to the point".
After some time, connect the parts together. Put the glued parts under the press. You can even lightly tap with a hammer on these areas.
Using a cotton swab or rag, immediately remove excess adhesive solution so that it does not spoil the front surface of the skin.

In this video you will see the technology of sewing zippers into leather clothes. If you are fond of tailoring leather products, subscribe to our channel and you will learn a lot of useful tips.

How to install accessories on leather products

Any handmade leather work should be decorated with fittings. Large metal rivets and buttons, buttons, blocks, locks adorn leather goods very much.
Buttons are sewn to the skin only if there are buttons on the wrong side.
Before punching holes for the button, they are strengthened, either with pieces of leather or with a dense adhesive cloth.
Installing buttons requires a special tool. You can get by with homemade fixtures, but this installation method gives a lot of marriage, then get more buttons than you need.
Before you install a zipper in a leather product, you should fix it. Instead of basting with threads, adhesive tapes or glue are used. Sometimes ordinary paper clips can even "help".
The edges of the cut areas of the skin are glued with special leather enhancers (tapes). On the one hand, a weak adhesive is applied to such a tape.
Holes remain from a puncture with a needle, so the seam is done once. As a last resort, lay a seam along the old holes.

In this video you will see how to install a denim metal button on leather items.

After finishing work with the skin, the appearance of the product can be refreshed.
You can remove the marking lines with soap and water and ammonia, then wiping with a cloth moistened with petroleum jelly or glycerin.
Heavily contaminated areas on the skin can be washed with warm unboiled milk, wiped with whipped protein or half an onion.
White skin is cleaned with a mixture of milk and beaten egg white.
Patent leather should be wiped with a cloth soaked in glycerin, or cleaned with a swab soaked in milk.
Suede can be cleaned with sawdust soaked in gasoline (remaining sawdust is brushed off), or with an ink eraser, as well as fine-grained abrasive paper.
Stains from household grease are removed with gasoline or talc and a solution of oxalic acid. But be careful, paint can be removed along with the stain.

Very easy to use spray paint for leather: it is sprayed by holding the can at a distance of about 20 cm from the skin and quickly moving it along the surface to be painted. After a ten-minute break, the next coat of paint is applied. This operation continues until the surface of the skin acquires an even and durable color.

A few tips on how to sew and cut leather or suede clothing details.
1. Pick patterns that do not require landing. Complex shapes in this case are easier to perform with constructive seams than with darts. In the past, tailors tried to use as few stitching lines as possible on leather goods. Currently, leather dressing has become thinner and softer, and leather products have more seams, often even leather clothing or accessories are sewn from small pieces of leather.

2. Kimono and raglan sleeves are easier to make when sewing leather clothes than set-in sleeves. If you are making a set-in sleeve, measure its fit increase. It should be no more than 1.5 cm. It is better to make a shirt-cut sleeve, since it has a freer armhole.

3. You must be sure that your patterns are correct. Therefore, it is good to use the pattern with which you have already worked. Or, the prepared pattern should be checked on a model made of non-woven material (non-woven fabric without glue) or inexpensive fabric, and only after that mark it on the skin and cut it.

4. Before cutting the skin, mark holes and thin places on the wrong side of the skin so that they can be bypassed when cutting. Carefully lay out the patterns, make sure that the paired parts (right and left shelves, right and left sleeves, etc.) are cut out in a mirror image. Mark the contours, lines and marks on the wrong side of the skin with a ballpoint pen or soft pencil, or a special pen for marking. Mark the seam and hem allowances. Some marks can be made with notches or adhesive tape. The seam allowances should be the same width, which makes it easier to sew the cut details.

5. The skin is stretched in different directions in different ways, therefore, when cutting, it is necessary to observe the same direction of paired and mating parts. When cutting suede, you must follow the direction of the pile. The pile should be directed from top to bottom.

6. The needle leaves puncture marks on the skin, so the leather parts are not swept away, and the stitching seams are not ripped. Use adhesive tape or paper clips to pre-join the parts. There is also a special pencil for fixing Guterman's seams. The pencil does not leave a mark on the needle of the sewing machine. By the way, glue is a certain problem when sewing. It clogs the eye of the needle, and there are gaps in the stitches and even thread breakage.

7. Use a stitch, topstitch, or topstitch. Seam allowances cannot be ironed or ironed, as on a fabric. Instead, they can be glued with rubber glue or another that remains elastic even after polymerization (drying). There are special adhesives from the Rudolfix company, as well as NT 2 glue from the Guterman company. If you don't have glue, secure the seam allowances in place with machine stitching.

8. As a lining, it is recommended to use a special interlining for leather LE 420, glued with an iron.

9. The fastener is performed on a "zipper", on loops (turned, overcast and hinged) and on buttons. Buttons must be riveted. They are put in workshops for installing fittings.

10. If you do not have such a handy tool as in this photo, then smooth the seams with the handles of scissors.
First, from the inside, lay the allowances with short taps, smooth them out. Then do the same on the front side with the seam groove.

11. Working with leather involves ironing the leather with a non-hot iron without steam through a dry cloth from the inside of the product. Before ironing a part of the product, test it on a small patch of leather.
Ironing the leather is not recommended because the hot soleplate of the iron can change its properties, become stiff and shrink in size. But sometimes it is required when working with leather to put an adhesive pad. Then you need to iron very carefully and always only on the wrong side, laying an iron under the sole of the iron.

Sometimes genuine leather needs to be sewn together on a furrier machine. In this video you will see how the furrier machine 10B works.