Detailed designs of frame houses. Materials for the construction of a frame house: choice, influence on the calculations of the average air temperature, especially the calculations of the roof and foundation

09.06.2018

Determining the cost of construction is the most complicated procedure. The project budget is determined by the final opinion of many specialists and the accuracy of this determination depends on the qualifications of the designers. A layman in construction who needs to navigate financial side of this always unique process, one must first imagine how the price of such a product is formed.

How the construction cost is formed

Construction costs consist of the following components:

The cost of design work. They include the price of a comprehensive survey of the site, request and receipt of those. conditions for connection to engineering networks, coordination and approval, designer supervision. All these components and less important data are mandatory and regulated by law.
Price building materials and equipment, including forwarding and transport costs, warehousing and security.
The cost of construction work is usually the rate multiplied by the amount of work.
Others - equity participation in local public projects, obligatory payments to the budget, compensation for forests, damage to the landscape, etc.

The most difficult thing in determining the cost is taking into account the details, the specific conditions of construction and the site, the market situation. These circumstances must be taken into account by the project. An approximate determination of the price of building materials plus the cost of work on a frame house should also take into account the impact of a specific situation.

Advice: if there is absolutely no money for the designer, then you can do it yourself. It is not difficult.

Cost calculation by analogy

Experienced builders and people who have real information can afford to determine the price of a project by comparing its characteristics with the indicators of some similar object implemented nearby. For example, the cost frame house should be similar to the price of the same house in the neighborhood, but will exceed it by a third, since new house will be more by a third. The application of this method is quite reliable, but such reliability should be based on understanding the specifics of the construction process. The price of an analogue must also be reliable - many, especially individuals, distort this information.

The most common way of calculating the price of a project by analogy is calculating the average price per square meter of the building area formed in the region. This indicator is also used to indicate the cost of large parts of a building, for example, the cost of a frame house can be indicated by the cost of a foundation and a wooden frame, expressed in square meters. This is perhaps the only way that a layman can be advised to use. And this method also needs reservations and clarifications.

Calculating the estimated cost of construction

The most accurate method is budgeting. The designer can draw up an estimate taking into account budget standards and prices for work. The contractor makes an estimate taking into account the real state of affairs and his own profit. The contractor's estimate is less risky at the risk of additional costs. Accuracy of estimates
designer for budget work is guaranteed in a disciplinary and administrative manner. The exact as well as approximate determination of costs is regulated by the Federal Center for Pricing in Construction. The difficulty of using estimated indicators (prices) for an approximate, because they were created for a detailed study of the construction process.

The cost of building a frame house can be calculated according to the project with high accuracy and approximately - according to the main design work with appropriate adjustments. But for such work, regardless of the accuracy, a highly qualified professional is needed. A person without such experience will not be able not only to apply prices, but also to determine the scope of work.

Determination of construction costs by aggregated indicators

You can estimate the budget for a rack using a rounded and summarized cost estimate for critical work. These works can be distinguished as follows:

earthworks and foundation;
erection of walls and ceilings, separately - the device of the frame;
roofing;
arrangement of engineering networks and equipment;
finishing work.

In each region, you can determine the average values \u200b\u200bof prices, tariffs for such generalized most important works. The scope of the work itself can be calculated or taken by analogy. Having worked out all the components of the project, you can eventually get the total approximate cost of building a frame house.

This method also requires a lot of experience and qualifications, the ability to take into account important details and anticipate possible complications. This method of calculating the price of an object is often used by private contractors who do not make a professional estimate and financial calculation. Instead, it is compiled - often with computer programs - a simplified illustration of the required price.

A layman should not expect that the item of unforeseen and unaccounted for expenses will cover all the inaccuracies of artisanal and even professional estimate and financial calculations. The norm of these costs is very small, and the customer will not allow the assignment of an excessively large percentage of unaccounted for. The only method
elaboration of the price issue in construction - participation of specialists. Even an approximate calculation of the cost of a frame house should be performed by an experienced person, or even better - by a specialist estimator, and it is very good if an approximate figure is obtained collectively.

An interesting interview with a builder regarding the cost of building a house:

Calculation of materials

WALLS:
pine racks (150x50mm):
1.9 m³ х 7000 rubles / m³	RUB 13,300
dSP sheets (3200х1250х10mm):
22 pcs. x 742 rubles / piece	16324 RUB
drywall sheets (2500x1200x10mm):
25 pcs. x 260 rubles / piece	6500 RUB
sheathing board (40x25mm):
0.5 m³ х 6500 rubles / m³	3250 RUB
waterproofing (Tyvek Soft):
89 m² х 68 rubles / m²	RUB 6052
pE vapor barrier:
77 m² х 11 rubles / m²	847 RUB
bio-protective composition:
36 liters x 75 rubles / liter	RUB 2700
siding profile (3660x230mm):
101 pcs. x 437 rubles / piece	RUB 44137
sheathing board (40x25mm):
0.2 m³ x 6500 rubles / m³	1300 RUB
bio-protective composition:
9 liters x 75 rubles / liter	RUB 675
:
12.68 m³ х 3700 rubles / m³	RUB 46,916

TOTAL: by foundation

39195 rub.

OVERLAPPINGS:
wooden beams 150x50; 150x100:
1.4 m³ х 7000 rubles / m³	RUB 9800
knauf drywall (2500х1200x10):
13 pcs. x 260 rubles / piece	3380 RUB
steel profile with fasteners:
111.4 r.m. x 52 rubles / r.m.	5793 RUB
mineral wool insulation (Rockwool):
9.6 m³ х 3700 rubles / m³	35520 RUB
waterproofing (Tyvek Soft):
93 m² х 68 rubles / m²	6324 RUB
pE vapor barrier:
93 m² х 11 rubles / m²	1023 RUB
plywood sheets FC 1525x1525x18:
0.7 m³ х 19000 rubles / m³	RUB 13,300
edged sub-floor boards:
0.8 m³ х 6500 rubles / m³	5200 RUB

TOTAL: by floors

80340 rub.

ROOF:
pine racks (150x50mm):
1.6 m³ х 7000 rubles / m³	RUB 11,200
bio-protective composition:
24 liters x 75 rubles / liter	1800 RUB
waterproofing (Tyvek Soft):
94 m² х 68 rubles / m²	RUB 6392
steel roof tiles (Monterrey):
97 m² х 450 rubles / m²	RUB 43650
self-tapping roofing 4.8x35:
3 pack. х 550 rubles / pack (250 pcs.)	1650 RUB
figured skate (2000mm):
5 pieces. x 563 rubles / piece	2815 RUB
lathing board 100x30mm:
0.8 m³ х 7000 rubles / m³	5600 RUB

10:0,0,0,220;0,290,220,220;290,290,220,0;290,0,0,0|5:171,171,0,220;0,171,111,111;171,290,160,160|1134:220,160|1334:146,39;146,122|2255:0,136|2155:65,0;65,220;206,220|2422:290,50;290,99|1934:211,-20

RUB 396,193.0

Only for the Moscow region!

Calculation of the cost of work

Do you want to know how much it costs to build your house and choose the contractors?

Submit an express application and receive offers from construction professionals!

Layout example 8x6 m for calculation	Structural scheme
		1. Lathing lathing d \u003d 150mm; 2. Facing with siding; 3. slab mineral insulation (inside the frame) d \u003d 150mm; 4. Ventilation duct d \u003d 20-50mm; 5. Cement-particle sheets d \u003d 12mm; 6. Plasterboard finishing d \u003d 10mm; 7. Overlapping timber-beam d \u003d 150-250mm; 8. Sheets of metal tiles; 9. The foundation is columnar prefabricated-block h \u003d 1.8m;

Timber panel frame wall with vinyl siding cladding and interlayer thermal insulator

Frame wall

The technology of frame-panel structures consists of a power timber structure, lined from the outside with wood-composite sheets (DSP, chipboard or OSB) and filled in thickness with basalt heat-insulating filler. Due to their low severity, frame-shield walls can be erected on pre-fabricated shallow tape or columnar-grillage foundations, which significantly reduces the total construction budget costs.

Due to the moderate cost and operational installation, with sufficient reliability, frame-panel architecture has won quite wide popularity for individual housing construction. At the present stage, up to 80 percent of individual households in the American states, European countries and Canada are built on the basis of this technology.

The assembly of frame walls is performed in the following sequence:

On the foundation, covered with a moisture-proof film, a frame frame is made of dried timber, 14.0x4.5 cm or 15.0x5.0 cm in size, treated with an anti-rotting composition (for example, Teknos, Aquatex, Biofa, Holzplast, Tikkurila, KSD, Senezh, Dulux , Biosept, Kartotsid, Cofadex, Tex, Pinotex).
Outside, the frame is sheathed with chipboard (chipboard), cement chipboard (cement chipboard) or OSB (oriented chipboard), 0.9 ... 1.2 cm thick, with technological gaps within 3 mm.
The space between the frames of the frame, from the side of the premises, is laid with a dense mineral wool heat shield (type: Ursa, P-125, PPZh-200, Isover, Izorok, Izomin, P-175, Rockwool, Knauf), with a layer of 0.15 m, then, a vapor barrier sheet is rolled along the beams, with overlap glued with adhesive tape.
For further laying of gypsum plasterboards, on top of the vapor barrier, lathing preparation is performed from 40x25 mm boards.
Outside sheets of OSB (DSP, chipboard), attached from around the perimeter frame structure, it is worth laying a waterproof vapor-permeable membrane, such as Izospan, Yutavek, Tyvek, which protects the heat-insulated frame-prefabricated wall from rain and, at the same time, promotes the free removal of steam from the heat-saving material.
To implement a blown gap, galvanized profiles or pine blocks, pre-impregnated with a protective agent, 30-40 mm thick, with a step of 400-500 mm, are stuffed outside the waterproofing vapor-transparent screen.
At the end, on the made guides, the front layer of the siding profile is attached.

PVC siding facade

Polyvinylchloride siding profile is resistant to mechanical, weather, chemical influences, does not support combustion, does not rot.

Due to the fact that vinyl siding changes its linear dimensions quite strongly at different temperature conditions, it is necessary to use free fastening of vinyl panels.

Today, plastic siding manufacturers (Ortho, Docke, Georgia Pacific, Holzplast, AltaProfil, Nordside, Tecos, Gentek, Mitten, Varitek, Snowbird, Vytec, FineBer) provide a rich gamut of colors and shades that allows a single home to maintain its uniqueness.

PVC siding in the hearth of an open fire only melts, igniting when heated at least 390 ° C (and wood already at 230-260 ° C), soon self-extinguishing when the heating center disappears, while the amount of carcinogenic heating products is not significant than when wood structures are smoldering ...

However, it is important to remember that PVC siding can have a beautiful appearance and serve for a long time, only if the installation rules are strictly followed.

Basic technological rules for securing a PVC profile:

The vinyl strips are suspended "from the ground", and the first step is to fix a special starting strip.
The siding plates are installed so that they can easily move from side to side, therefore, it is unacceptable to clamp the screws tightly in the mounting slots.
When suspending the next siding panel, attach it to the lock with the previous profile and, without tension, attach with a screwdriver.
If you need to make the seams inconspicuous, the installation of siding is best done, starting from the side of the building, moving to the facade, and each subsequent strip of siding will be superimposed on the previous one in the current row, by about 20 ... 30 millimeters, for the same reason, the formed joints for connecting ordinary levels, it is worth shifting in relation to each other.
Screws or nails into the siding panel should be screwed into the center of the existing technological grooves in order not to impede thermal movements and, accordingly, not to cause a point warping of the PVC profile.
Keep grooves, 5-10 mm, at the supply points of external networks (wires, brackets, pipes, cables), as well as at the joints of the siding plate and accessories (inner corner, platband, outer corner, H-profile, etc.) ), in order to provide thermal contractions or expansions of PVC siding.

Columnar-precast foundation

If the building takes place on dry stony (sandy, non-porous) soils, then, for shield garden structures, a shallow columnar foundation made of small solid blocks on crushed stone will fit.

During the construction of a stone structure with dimensions in the plan of over 50 square meters, the foundation supports are laid out on supports, the base area of \u200b\u200bwhich is twice the cross-section of the supports, and a monolithic reinforced concrete tape is poured on top.

For 2-storey houses, formwork with reinforcement is placed on the blocks and a reinforced concrete belt is cast, and only then the beam beams and a waterproofing film.

The traditional way of building such a foundation is as follows:

Depressions are pulled out to a depth of 700-1000 mm.
Gravel is poured with a height of 0.1-0.15 m, compacted, and covered with a film.
Then, sand-cement “bricks” of standard size TsS 20-20-40, up to 30 ÷ 50 cm above the surface of the building site, are placed on the preparation from the cement mixture.
A waterproofing sheet is placed on the calibrated blocks and wooden beams are exposed.

Timber beam floor

Beams of coniferous trees have been used for logs since ancient times: larch, spruce, pine, with a moisture content of no more than 14 percent. In terms of bending moment, the strongest beam is a bar with a sectional ratio of 7: 5 (for example, 140 x 100 mm).

In individual housing construction, overlaps made of wood beams are mainly common, due to the simplicity and low cost of their construction.

When choosing a material for the floor, you need to use special diagrams that determine the dependence of the beam geometry on the load and the distance between the supports; in another way, it is permissible to proceed from the simplified rule that the wide side of the beam should be approximately 0.042 of the beam length, and the thickness should be 5 ÷ 10 cm, with an interval of alternating beams of 500 - 1000 mm and a load of 1.5 kPa.

For a suitable replacement of a lag of a sufficient section, you can use hammered boards, with the obligatory leaving of the total size unchanged.

Important points of installation of timber-beam floors:

As a rule, in stone houses, the end parts of the logs are located in the nests of the walls, where moisture condenses, for this reason, between the wall and the cuts of the ends of the logs, a free gap is created for ventilation, and with a significant length of the opening, a thermal insulating layer is also placed.
The installation of the lag is performed in the following sequence: first of all, the extreme ones, and then, with control by the spirit level, all the rest. The bars should be placed on the wall structure no shorter than 0.15-0.20 m.
in log cabins, the end parts of the logs are cut in the form of a "frying pan", and then they are driven into the groove of the last crown to the entire depth of the wall.
The distance between the logs and the stove channel must be at least 40 cm, and the logs are set aside from the masonry at least 50 mm.
The end parts of the beams are cut with an inclination of about 60 degrees, covered with an anti-rotting compound (Cofadex, Tex, Senezh, Holzplast, Tikkurila, Teknos, Biosept, Pinotex, Aquatex, Kartotsid, Dulux, KSD, Biofa) and covered with tar paper, keeping the end cut uncovered, for protection against rotting, which can occur when steam condenses in the cavity of the brick.

The interfloor floor is not insulated, the attic floor is thermally insulated with a vapor-tight film from the bottom of the insulation, and the floor of the first floor is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier over the insulation.

However, if the question of the structural strength of wooden floor slabs is mainly settled due to the obvious increase in the cross-section of the beams and their number, then with fire protection and acoustic insulation the situation looks more complicated.

One of the options for increasing the fire-resistant and sound-insulating indicators of interlevel beams consists of the following points:

On the lower surface of the bearing logs, perpendicular to them, on spring holders, after 300-400 mm, galvanized profiles are mounted - a crate, on which a plasterboard ceiling is attached from below.
On top of the lathing, a synthetic film is spread and fixed with brackets to the beams, on which mineral wool insulation slabs are tightly laid, such as: Knauf, Ursa, Izorok, Rockwool, Izomin, Isover, with a layer of 5 cm, with an overlap on lateral surfaces overlapping beams.
From the side of the upper level, plywood plates (16 ÷ 25 mm) are installed on the logs, after which, a high-density basalt fiber sound insulator (25 ÷ 30 mm), and again, a layer of chipboard of the subfloor is laid out.

Metal roofing

Today, the most widespread is the Monterrey metal tile pattern: wave pitch - 350 mm, wave depth - 2.3 cm, implemented by many companies (Grand Line, Metal Profile, Pelti ja Rauta, Interprofile, Finish Profiles, Poimukate).

The roofing material is mounted on a rigid frame made up of rafters and battens.

In the construction of individual housing construction, a structure of 2 and 3 spans with inclined rafters and internal support walls is often performed.

The gap between the trusses is usually made within 60 ... 90 cm when the rafter legs are 5x15 ... 10x15 cm; the supporting ends of the rafter beams are fixed on a fixing bar with dimensions of 100x100 ... 150x150 mm.

The total cross-section of the ventilation gaps: inlet and outlet, should be one to a hundred to the roof area, a similar ventilation rate is required in order to reliably remove moisture coming from living quarters and to save sheets of m / tiles from possible corrosion damage.

Features of installation of sheets of metal roofing:

For further insulation of the attic space, it is advisable to lay on the rafters, under the crate flooring, vapor-permeable fabric: Tyvek, Stroizol SD130, TechnoNIKOL, Yutavek 115,135, Izospan. It is not allowed to use “non-breathable” films on bituminous aggregates for moisture insulation.
Slats 3.0x5.0 cm are nailed along the rafters, onto the laid waterproofing sheet, and battens 10x3.0 cm to them, at intervals of 35 cm (for the Monterrey m / tile profile). In this case, the bottom lathing should be 18 mm thicker, and the distance between the bottom end of the starting board and the middle of the next one should be 300 mm.
At the points of the subsequent installation of the snow-retaining profile, when assembling the battens, it is necessary to attach reinforcing battens under the crest of the wave.
Before laying sheets of metal tiles, gutter hooks are installed on truss beams or cornice.
The strips of metal tiles are pressed with self-tapping screws into the lower zone of the wave, in the zones of contact with the crate preparation.
To the starting batten, which is thicker than others, the strips of metal tiles are pressed with self-tapping screws above the wave step.
The slopes on the extreme left and right, the canvases are attached at the ends of the roof even more often, i.e. on all support bars.
When laying metal-tile strips, the initial strip is aligned along the bottom and side of the roof and hung on one self-tapping screw to the last board of the crate, in the same manner they do with 2-3 strips next in a row, fastening them to each other and trimming along the axis of the cornice, and then firmly attached, while spending about 6-8 pieces. special self-tapping screws with gaskets per square meter of metal tiles.
The laying of m / tile canvases is performed, from bottom to top, from left to right (or from right to left), with each subsequent sheet covering the capillary drain and one period of the previous one.

Frame houses are a fairly young type of construction work, but popular, which allows you to save a significant part of time and money. By studying the relevant reference literature and having certain building skills, you can build a full-fledged house three times cheaper than the cost of the same apartment in a finished house. How to calculate correctly frame house and choose materials, what to consider in future construction?

Calculation of materials for the construction of a frame house is an important action. You can determine the approximate amount of costs, calculate financial losses and possible risks. In the event that the calculation of materials for a frame house will be preliminarily more than it was calculated to be laid in construction, to reduce the area or number of storeys of the house, choose more economical options for building materials.

Calculation of the foundation of a frame house

Calculation of the cost of building a frame house must begin with the foundation. There are three main types of foundation for frame houses - tape, columnar and pile-grillage.

Types of foundation for a frame house

The calculation of the foundation of a frame house should take into account not only the selected material, but also the size of construction work, the future load of the house, the degree of swampiness of the soil, the level of groundwater, windy changes and weather conditions for the area.

For example, it is recommended to install a columnar foundation for small-storey construction of a small area, country houses. Pile-grillage - for multi-storey buildings and when building houses in problem areas in terms of soils and temperatures. In this case, the calculation of the cost of the foundation of a frame house will take into account the number and length of piles and pillars to strengthen the structure.

The cost of a strip foundation for a frame house will depend on the depth, the selected option of reinforcement, wood for formwork. When carrying out the installation of formwork and pouring cement on your own, it can save up to 30% of the cost of the foundation, on average, depending on the size of the house, construction work on installing the foundation will cost from 12,000 rubles.

Scheme for calculating the foundation on piles for a frame house

In the calculation of the cost of the foundation of a frame house, it will be necessary to include the cost of a sand embankment for leveling the terrain, reinforcement and formwork materials - independently manufactured or purchased ready-made kit, the cost of concrete - purchased independently or ordered from a construction team along with a concrete mixer.

On a note

The established foundation must be dried over a period of time - from several weeks to several months. A strip or pile-grillage foundation is usually covered with a film and left for the winter, but in the hot season, several weeks are enough for the foundation to dry.

Calculation of racks and walls of a frame house

Again, the main factor in calculating the cost of the walls of a frame house will be its area, number of storeys, multi-room and total load. High-rise construction requires the installation of thickened walls, ceilings and load-bearing structures.

On a note

Racks are the basis of a frame house; for their construction, you will need not only a beam, but bars and boards.

The bars have several standards, height 50 or 100 mm, width - 100 or 200 mm. The calculation of a frame house will depend on the moisture content of the wood, the quality and type of the tree itself. The number of racks also depends on the selected option for cladding and insulation. The average cost of a technical bar for 1 m3 is from 600-700 rubles. Its thickness depends on the thickness of the wall and floor insulation material. Rack boards are used with a cut from 25 to 50 mm.

Calculation of the racks of a frame house

The height of the racks depends on the number of storeys of the building and the height of the ceilings in the premises, but in general it is from 2.5 m, in technical rooms - bathrooms and storerooms - it can be about 2 m. The step between the racks depends on the chosen width of the insulation and the wall panels to be mounted.

The cost OSB boards euro-format - from 500 rubles per sheet.

When building a frame house from ready-made SIP panels, the calculation of the walls of a frame house will depend on the selected panel size:

Length 1500 mm - from 600 rubles;
Length 2500 mm - from 700 rubles;
Length 2800 mm - from 750 rubles.

For self-installation of racks and panels, additional devices and equipment will be required, which must be taken into account when calculating materials for a frame house - special self-tapping screws, galvanized corners, drills and hacksaws for wood, nails, a hammer and others. Despite such costs, self-installation of walls will reduce the cost of building a frame house by a third.

Calculation of the cost of insulation for a frame house

Installation of insulation is required already in the process of laying the floor, then - when installing walls, ceilings and roofs, in the case of multi-storey construction - it is necessary to lay additional insulation of the ceiling.

Table with calculations of insulation in a frame house

The cost of materials for insulating a frame house will be different, from penny prices for polystyrene, to impressive sizes for ecowool. If you are aiming at long-term living in a built house, you should not save on its insulation.

Remove attention to processing from rodents and pests, environmental friendliness of the insulation material. In the middle price category, there is mineral or glass wool, which is often used to strengthen frame houses. Loose thermal insulation materials are recommended for roof or flat roof insulation.

What to consider when calculating insulation for a frame house

The cost and installation of the selected vapor barrier material, which is wet;
Installation of intermediate sheets of plywood for interior cladding;
The thickness of the insulation, which will depend on the location of the racks and weather conditions, averages from 10 to 25 cm;
When choosing a heater - stone or mineral wool, take into account the wind and waterproof film and its installation in the calculation of the insulation of the frame house;
Provide ventilation to prevent moisture from accumulating inside the walls of the house.

Insulation for a frame house

After the house has been sufficiently insulated, the interior wall cladding and finishing are performed.

Calculation of the roof for a frame house

The roof is the second element, which should not be saved when calculating materials for a frame house, it will reliably prevent leaks.

On a note

The cost of the roof will depend on its shape - pitched, gable or complex. It is also worth providing for roof insulation, and additional insulation of the residential attic.

Materials for the roof of a frame house

Materials required for roof installation:

timber for rafters, section 150 * 50mm;
boards and beams for installing the lathing - purchased based on the parameters of the future roof;
materials for installing fasteners - corners, nails, screws;
foam or stone wool for insulation;
materials for steam and waterproofing;
foam for processing joints;
flooring - roofing material, slate, tiles or other for final finishing.

Calculation of windows and doors for a frame house

The calculation of the cost of materials for windows and doors in a frame house will depend not only on the selected material, but also on the number of cameras in double-glazed windows and doors.

Calculation of windows and doors in a frame house

Double-glazed windows made of plastic cost on average from 4000-5000 rubles, the cost depends on the number of cameras, sashes and size, the cost of door windows will be 15-20% more.

Doors - metal or plastic, will cost from 5-6 thousand, also depending on the thickness of the material, locking system, handles.

Calculation of finishing a frame house

Calculation of the cost of materials for external and interior decoration will depend on your taste and desired costs. Outside, the house can be finished with both cheap siding and wood and stone panels, inside - also - from stretch ceilings and expensive plaster, to wood trim and plaster for painting.

If there are difficulties in calculating frame construction, you can seek help from specialists or purchase a ready-made set of houses from the factory.

Today frame construction popular as never before. The fact is that the calculation of the cost of building the same panel house shows: the cost of such a structure will be at least 30% less than the cost of a similar house made of any other material. It is not so difficult to calculate the consumption of lumber, the cost of facing for a frame house. This will be discussed in the article.

The choice of materials and their influence on the calculation

It goes without saying that ready-made materials for frame construction will occupy the largest share in the total estimate. Their consumption will make up a significant part of the construction budget.

First of all, attention should be paid to the consumption of lumber. In particular, the following materials will be needed for a panel house:

It is not so easy to calculate the cost of a transverse and post beam: here it is imperative to take into account the size of the future structure (its area), as well as the thermal insulation material that will be used during construction.

Calculation of the roof structure of a panel house, the choice of roofing material will also affect the total cost of construction. However, it is not so difficult to calculate the amount of roofing material.

In addition to the products of the woodworking industry, it is necessary to calculate the consumption of materials for the following:

When calculating the cost of a rack and transverse beam, you need to take into account the size of the future house, as well as the type of insulation used.

By the way, the calculation of materials for the structures described above should be performed only after the owner of the house has decided on the material of the boxes of the house and the roof. From them already "dances" and everything else.

Of course, if a person is ready to spend money to create a reserve of safety at home, then the calculations may not be made so scrupulously, but after all, frame houses are erected, most often, precisely because of their cheapness.

Wall insulation scheme of a frame house

Ambient temperature and its influence on the calculation

The heat in the house will also depend on the climatic features of the area where the house is being built. This is a well-known fact. The only moment when the climate can be ignored is if a country house is being built in which only summer residence is planned.

Here, in order to calculate the amount, you will definitely need a table indicating the thermal resistance coefficients of various materials, and all the indicators must be calculated separately for the walls of the building and for the roofing cake, otherwise all the heat will simply go through the attic floors and there will be no sense.

Based on such calculations, you can get the final required thickness of the walls and roofing cake, which will be sufficient to retain heat in the house (according to the coefficient of thermal resistance, again).

The layout of the racks in the frame wall

It is also much easier to make a calculation even if you know in advance all the parameters of materials (for example, the weight of all structures) that the manufacturer has set.

Usually, after all, frame houses are supplied as house kits, so it will not be difficult to find out all these values \u200b\u200b(usually all this is indicated in the documents that must be included with the house kit itself).

It is interesting that if a house is built using Canadian technology, from sandwich panels, then materials for its decoration will be required at a minimum. The fact is that in such panels, a heater is already installed in advance, that is, they have a heat-insulating layer.

The ventilation gap device will require additional costs

Most often, manufacturers use mineral wool as an insulating material for sandwich panels. It turns out that the outside of the house will not need to be insulated at all (which means that the cost item for external insulation should be deleted from the estimate, and only the calculation for the internal one should be left).

The calculation of thermal resistance indicators must be carried out separately for the walls of the building and for the roof.

Calculation of individual building structures

It is clear that before you build a frame house with your own hands, first of all, you need to include in the estimate the cost of material for building a roof and foundation.

Wiring diagram of a frame house

Thermal insulation of a frame house, both internal and external, is also an extremely important event, except for cases when houses are being built using Canadian technology, using pre-insulated sandwich panels.

Insulation of a frame house at a cost will be up to about 20% of the total estimate, provided that no factory insulation was used in the house kit, and up to 10% if one was used.

If you build a frame house with your own hands, then great importance will also have a consumption of lumber, and not even so much for the walls, but for the roof. The same attic beams in cost can be almost half the price of the entire box of a panel house.

We have already disassembled the calculation of lumber for the walls of a panel house, so attention should be paid to the roof. Of course, if you buy ready-made home kits, then there will be no difficulty: the manufacturer calculated everything in advance.

But how much lumber is needed for a panel house and its cladding, provided that a frame house is being built with your own hands - this is much more difficult. The insulation of a frame house has already been described above.

Roof

When designing the roof of a house, it is necessary to take into account not only the total weight and load of attic floors and beams, but also the weight and characteristics of the roofing material itself.

An example of a cost estimate for the construction of a frame house

Particular attention should also be paid to the roof structure, during the construction of which it is necessary to take into account the wind rose in a certain area (that is, from which side the wind will blow more often - from that side there will be a large load). Materials for construction are also selected taking into account these criteria.

In fact, these are very important criteria for choosing materials and calculating their cost. If you do not take into account the same wind rose, then the roof on one side can leak, leak out, roofing material without proper reinforcement and fastening can simply be blown away by a strong wind, not to mention hurricanes and other natural troubles.

The nuances that must be taken into account before starting the construction of the roof of a frame house:

a high and acute-angled roof is not recommended to be mounted on a house in an area where excessively strong winds prevail (otherwise, you will have to calculate the roof with a rather large margin of safety, which will inevitably lead to a significant increase in the entire construction estimate);
the roof sheathing should be installed with more frequent steps to increase the safety margin;
for rafter system it is necessary to choose a more durable beam (the thicker the roofing beam, the stronger it is, everything is extremely simple here);
it is better to select a harder roofing covering, as it will be stronger (slate instead of metal or corrugated board, for example).

If strong winds often blow in the area, it is better to buy a tougher roofing material such as slate.

Foundation

For frame shield structures, lightweight types of foundations such as shallow tape (most often monolithic), pile or even columnar are usually used. True, one must take into account the fact that columnar foundations are suitable only for small frame houses, for a summer residence, for example.

General diagram of the device of a frame house

As for piles, their most simple option is screw foundations... To calculate the number of piles, it will be necessary to take into account the entire mass of the house and the load per square meter of area from a solid foundation.

It will also be necessary to take into account the condition of the soil on the site that was allocated for the construction of the building. You also need to take into account the heaving of soils and the depth of groundwater.

For example, if the foundation piles are not buried deep enough, then during cold weather the foundation will simply raise the house, which will immediately lead to the appearance of cracks of various sizes and partial destruction of the frame structure.

After all, what mistake do people often make when building houses on their own? They calculate the foundation only by the weight of the house - that's all. And this cannot be done, because it is necessary to take into account many other criteria that were indicated above. But it is better for specialized specialists to do this - it will definitely be more reliable.

Video

You can watch a video on how the calculation of materials for the construction of a frame house is carried out.