Scheme of the arrangement of fasteners for pvc windows according to GOST. Installation of window blocks: stages and prices

22.08.2018

Tools and materials required to install window units
Opening preparation
Window block installation
Installing the window sill and drain

The installation of window blocks is a very responsible process.

It determines how good the thermal insulation and sound insulation will be in your home, as well as the durability of each window. Window blocks have different characteristics, there are wood, plastic, etc.

It is better to install window blocks before starting finishing works indoors (plastering, painting, wallpapering), because installing window and door blocks is a rather dirty and dusty job.

Tools and materials required to install window units

Window block device diagram: 1-window box; 2-window sashes; 3-glass; 4-quarters with panties layouts; 5-drainage with drip

Acrylic one-component vapor-permeable sealant (so that it is possible to seal the assembly seam and the junction of transparent structures to the wall openings of the window).
Polyurethane mounting foam (so that you can arrange a mounting seam and a junction of transparent structures to the wall openings of the window).
Acrylic one-component vapor barrier sealant (so that it is possible to seal the assembly seam and the junction of transparent structures to the wall openings of the window).
Metal brush (to clean window and door openings).
Sponge for removing dirt and dust from the surface.
Putty knife.
Foam gun.
Paint brush.
Special container for antiseptic treatment and moistening of joints.
Sealing and insulating tapes (so that it is possible to arrange an assembly seam and a junction of transparent structures to the wall openings of the window).
Wedges.
Plaster mortar.
Building level.

The installation technology of window units includes several stages.

Back to the table of contents

Opening preparation

Stages of installing the window block: a - fixing strips of roofing material; b - installation;
1 - roofing lining; 2 - projections (quarters) framing the opening; 3 - window block

All window surfaces of external and internal openings must be free of spalls, sagging and cavities of more than 1 cm. All defective areas must be putty with polymer-cement waterproof compounds. If the walls consist of porous materials that have a great ability to absorb moisture, then the surface of the window openings must be treated with impregnating primers or reinforcing compounds. You can also grout with plaster. All surfaces are cleaned of dirt, dust, ice and frost. If there is oil contamination, then they must be degreased. When the preparation of the surfaces of window openings is carried out carefully, the adhesion strength of all insulating materials increases. This creates the necessary resistance to the penetration of air and water through the assembly seam of the junction of the installed unit and prolongs its service life.
On the surface of the slopes (in the area of \u200b\u200bgluing vapor-permeable and vapor barrier tapes) and a quarter, a primer should be applied.
In winter, the openings are cleared of ice and snow, dried with compressed air and primed.
If the building has single-layer walls (masonry or brickwork, expanded clay concrete blocks and others) and window blocks will be located in the area of \u200b\u200bpossible condensation, it is imperative to insulate the internal slopes.

Back to the table of contents

Installation of a window block

Scheme of fixing window blocks in the opening: 1-wooden wedges; 2-mooring cord; 3-plumb

Sealing and insulating tapes are harvested to size on a prepared cutting table, board or any other place of installation directly from the roller. To the required size (for a horizontal ceiling joint - 5 mm plus the width of the opening, for vertical joints - the size of the full height of the opening) add 1-2 cm to create an overlap in the corners. After that, the protective tape is removed from the material on both sides by 3 cm.
During the first stage of insulation of the inner layer, it is necessary to glue the vapor barrier tape on 3 sides of the slope. It is necessary to do everything in this sequence: first on the vertical surface of the slope, then on the horizontal ceiling surface of the window. Carefully close up the overlap of the tapes. A tape 60 mm wide for insulation from steam is glued with a sticky wide layer, it is necessary to retreat from a quarter of the opening at a distance of 30-35 mm, while using the stop bar.

Window block mounting scheme: 1-sill board; 2-tow; 3-antiseptic wooden insert; 4-ruff crutch; 5-ledge (quarter) of the wall; 6-external weir; 7-window box

If it becomes necessary to prevent the effect of moisture from the side of the wall opening on the foam insulation, a tape up to 100 mm wide can be installed over the entire width of the slope. During the application of the tape, the protective paper strip is removed from the adhesive layer. In this case, it is necessary to preserve the protective strip, which covers the adhesive layer made for attaching the tapes to the window unit.

When gluing the sealing and sealing tapes, do not pull the tape over the joints. It is necessary to roll on and stick the tape so that the entire surface of the tape is even, without swelling, air bubbles and folds. The size of the joint should be at least ½ of the tape width, on one side of the seam there should be no more than one joint.

Before the window (door) blocks are mounted in the opening, a vapor-permeable sealing tape PSUL is installed. Its fastening is carried out both to the surface of a quarter of the opening and directly to the frame of the window block. First of all, the PSUL tape is glued to the vertical surface, and then to the horizontal top with an overlap at the intersection of the tapes. The protective paper tape on the side of the sticky layer is removed with an advance of 5-7 cm. The cross-section of this tape must be such that the size of the tape squeezed by the block is at least 70% in thickness.

Further, in accordance with the requirements of GOSTs for the nominal dimensions of the gaps during installation and drawings project documentation, you can start installing and fixing the window units. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there is no damage to the belts installed on the slopes. Window (door) blocks in thickness outer wall establish:

with a single-layer wall, use a distance of no more than 2/3 of the thickness of the wall opening (it is necessary to count from the inner surface of the wall);
with a multilayer wall, the blocks are placed in the plane of the heat-insulating layer.

Lateral adhesion of the window block to the opening with a quarter to the brick wall, with finishing of the inner slope with plaster mortar

When installing window blocks, it is necessary, simultaneously with their binding to the vertical base facade lines, to ensure the size of the installation vertical gaps within the established limits.

Before starting to fix the window (door) blocks to the walls, it is necessary to install bearing blocks made of materials with a hardness of at least 80 Shore units. In vertical units it is necessary to use wedge-type pads. The installed pads should in no case interfere with the fastening of all insulating tapes. Temporary wedges are used when the window box is temporarily fastened. After the gap is filled with polyurethane foam and it has hardened, the wedges must be removed and the formed voids must be filled with foam.
All deformation and power loads must be directed to the walls through the fasteners. All work should be carried out taking into account the design solution. A load on the seam must not be allowed due to the low strength of all insulating materials. At the same time, you will maintain performance.
After the window and door blocks are installed, the central layer of filling the seam with polyurethane foam is performed. This is the most critical process that provides sound insulation, thermal insulation and durability of the joint.
Before applying the foam, the seam is moistened with a spray bottle. Shake the can with polyurethane foam before use. The foam is applied from bottom to top along the entire perimeter of the window opening in a uniform layer to a joint depth of no more than 40 mm.
Before the foam has time to expand, the installation of the inner layer insulation must be completed. In this case, the free edge of the vapor barrier tape installed on the slope is glued with the sticky side on the vertical inner and horizontal upper surface of the window to a width of at least 10 mm. The edges of the tape should not go beyond the borders of the decorative casing, the installation of which begins immediately after the installation of the internal vapor barrier layer.

TYPICAL TECHNOLOGICAL CARD (TTK)

INSTALLATION OF WINDOW UNITS

1 AREA OF USE

Fig. 1. The most important parts and details of windows

A - window box; 1 - vertical bars; 2 - vertical impost; 3 - horizontal bars (top and bottom); 4 - horizontal impost; 5 - low tide; b - sash; 1-2 - vertical sash bars; 3 - vertical bars of the vestibule; 4 - horizontal bars of the sash (lower and upper); 5 - layout; 6 - cover strips (internal and external); c - details: 1 - platband; 2 - quarter; 3 - quarter width; 4 - quarter height; 5 - fold under glass; 6 - layout; 7 - chamfer; 8 - surfacing; 9 - a quarter of the narthex (narthex)

Wooden windows

The advantages of wooden windows. Wooden windows have good heat and sound insulation properties. A significant advantage of wooden windows is the ability to repair them yourself. Also, the advantages of natural wood windows are:

high strength of wood with a low volumetric weight, which provides a high coefficient of structural quality;

high frost resistance, which is important in our Russian climate;

ease of processing;

ecological cleanliness;

attractive appearance of natural material.

Disadvantages of wooden windows The disadvantages of wooden windows include:

the presence of defects in the wood (cracks, knots, resin pockets, blue, and so on);

susceptibility to decay and damage by microorganisms;

hygroscopicity (dependence technical characteristics wood from moisture);

flammability;

the need for periodic care.

Choosing a wooden window. New generation wooden window frames are mainly made of pine, oak, beech, walnut, mahogany. Mahogany (mahogany) is the best tree for the production of window frames, as it is well processed, it allows you to make an accurate fit of parts and almost does not shrink over time. The wood is treated with a special protective impregnation against moisture, wood-boring beetles and sun exposure. Frames made of fine wood are the most expensive, but there is a cheaper option: pine with oak, beech or walnut finish.

Today on the Russian market there are wooden windows both domestic and foreign production. The high price of windows from abroad is mainly determined by the fact that, according to the production technology, window blocks can be supplied only in finished form.

Exists three conditional groups, into which you can divide the wooden windows that exist on our market:

foreign finished windows imported from Finland, Sweden, Germany, Italy and other countries. They are of high quality and relatively high price;

windows produced at Russian or joint ventures using imported equipment and foreign technologies. Their quality is quite high, with the use of cheaper technologies for processing and painting wood, prices become average;

domestic windows manufactured on russian production... If obsolete equipment is used in their production, then the quality and price can be very low.

Quality wooden window:

made of quality wood, dried to the required moisture content, in compliance with the required drying technology;

wood is processed with modern materials using modern technology;

the window is painted according to modern technology with modern materials;

both individual parts of the window and the window as a whole must be of a modern design;

high-quality components should be used in the construction of the window - glass / double-glazed windows, fittings, seals, etc.

Wooden window constructions... By design, wooden windows are divided into:

single-sash windows;

double sash windows;

windows with split sashes;

windows with split-double sashes (combined).

Single-leaf windows. Along with the possibility of installing ordinary glass, it is now possible to install a single-chamber or two-chamber glass unit.

A double-glazed unit can also have a different design, be filled with special gases (argon, krypton, etc.), and also be equipped with special glasses (see "glazing").

Double sash windows. The window unit consists of external and internal doors, paired with each other. In this case, the inner sash is hung on the frame. The leaves are connected with each other by means of ties and, thus, constitute, as it were, one binding with high rigidity. Internal and external flaps have the ability to separate, which makes glass cleaning convenient. As a glazing, either two ordinary glasses are installed or the glass of the inner sash is replaced with a double-glazed unit.

Opening of windows with single and double sashes with the help of modern fittings can be anything: pivoting, folding with top or bottom suspension, swing-out (combined), rotating or sliding. Moreover, it is possible to install doors with different opening methods in one box. The most often used for a double-leaf window with a transom is rotary opening of one sash, swing-out of the other and tilt-opening of a transom with a lower suspension. The revolving sashes allow them to be rotated 180 ° for easy maintenance.

Windows with split sashes. Such windows consist of a box and sashes, which are fixed in the box at some distance. Glazing with two glasses or glass + double-glazed window is used. Blinds can be installed between the separate leaves, while the control handle will be inside the room, or it is possible to use a remote control method (for tall transoms).

In modern split windows, the fittings allow you to open both sashes with one handle. But the possibilities of opening in such structures are limited, and the swing-out method is impossible due to the large width of the window frame.

Combined window designs. Windows of this type consist of double-leafed sashes, moreover, the outer sash is single, and the inner sash is paired.

Safety shutters, mosquito nets and hinged shutters are easy to install in any timber window structure.

Casement windows of any of the above structures consist of a split window frame and casement casement.

Split window box rigidly connected to the wall of the building, a casement window frame is movably installed to it. The box includes:

vertical strapping of a separate window box;

the upper trim of the split window box;

lower trim of a separate box;

window post or mullion - a vertical element for connecting a split box in width;

crossbar or impost - a cross member for connecting a split box in height.

Casement - a window element movably connected to a split box or other casement. It consists of:

vertical sash strapping - top sash strapping;

lower sash trim, for example, ebb bar;

slab binding - a shaped horizontal bar for connecting casement binding.

In the construction of wooden windows, it is important to consider the following specific features:

narrow vertical profiles are better able to take up loads from the side of the glazing and at the same time allow minimizing the effect of moisture on wooden transverse parts;

the profile must be sloped enough (at least 18 °) so that rainwater is quickly drained away from the heaviest load-bearing bottom window frame;

all parts of the window exposed to moisture, for example, wearable windshield strips, must be easily replaced (Fig. 2);

to ensure good application and retention of the paintwork, all outer edges must be rounded (minimum radius 4 mm).

Fig. 2. Double-leaf window with latch, mortise hinges and angles:

1 - upper horizontal bar of the box; 2 - upper horizontal sash bar; 3 - cut-in loop; 4 - vertical hinge bar of the sash; 5 - vertical bar of the box; 6 - glass pane 2 mm thick; 7 - beveled slab; 8 - feigned sash bar; 9 - emphasis in the wall; 10 - outer opening; 11 - inner opening; 12 - window lintel; 13 - rebate for glazing; 14 - lower horizontal bar of the box; 15 - bolt; 16 - window sill board; 17 - drainage; 18 - squares; 19 - cover strip; 20 - low tide; 21 - latch; 22 - groove for the window sill; 23 - internal plaster; 24 - window sill

2. ORGANIZATION AND TECHNOLOGY OF WORK PERFORMANCE

Installation of window blocks

Before the installation of joinery, the overall dimensions, the correctness of the hanging and the quality of the finish of the sashes are carefully checked. Skews and warping are checked with rulers, squares and limit gauges and templates. The warping and distortions of products and their elements should not be more than 0.7 mm per 1 m.

The moisture content of the joinery is checked with a moisture meter. The moisture content of the wood of sashes, transoms, vents, blinds and boxes in window blocks should be 9 ± 3%, the moisture content of the window box.

In the case of admission to the construction of joinery without devices (hinges, locks, handles), they are installed on site. The hinges in the bars of sashes and boxes must be cut flush (without ledges), otherwise the sashes will not close tightly and spring. The hinges in the windows are cut at a distance of 200 mm from the quarter of the box.

To mark the nests under the locks, the P.S. Kuskov template is used (Fig. 3). The devices are cut in the carpentry workshop on a special workbench, which has four places (pockets) for storing tools. A template is put on the door leaf in the place of the lock insert, and nests, strips and larvae are outlined with a pencil.

Fig. 3. Template for marking the lock slots:

1 - door; 2 - the width of the upper bar of the lock; 3 - hole for the lock; 4 - key hole; 5 - template

Window and door fittings are secured with anti-corrosion countersunk screws. Window handles are fixed at a distance of 1.5 ... 1.6 m from the floor, and door handles - at a distance of 1 m. In the doors, the upper latches are installed so that they can be opened from the floor without supports, i.e. at a height of 1.8 ... 1.9 m.

The finished window blocks are installed in the opening (in the design position) using cranes, for which the mounting hooks are temporarily screwed into the blocks.

When erecting brick, large-block and frame buildings, window blocks are installed during the laying of walls, in large-panel houses - at manufacturing plants after heat treatment of the panels.

The surfaces of the window blocks adjacent to the stone walls are antiseptic and wrapped with a waterproofing material, roofing felt, roofing felt. The gaps between the box and the masonry of the walls are sealed with heat-insulating material (caulk).

The installation of the blocks must be done so that the axes of the window blocks are located strictly along the axes of the openings. The coincidence of the axes of the blocks and openings is checked with a plumb line along the axis of the opening (Fig. 4), while the plumb line must pass exactly through the point of intersection of the diagonals. After alignment, the boxes are fastened in the opening with wedges.

Fig. 4. Checking the correct installation of the window unit in the opening:

1 - wall; 2 - gap; 3 - window block; 4 - wedges; 5 - places of checking with a ruler along the diagonal; 6 - plumb line

When installing blocks in the openings of multi-storey buildings, it is necessary to ensure that the elements of the same name of window blocks are mounted strictly on the same line, i.e. the vertical bars of the valves were on the same vertical line, i.e. the vertical bars of the valves were in the same vertical line.

Window blocks with paired bindings (Fig. 5, and) are installed in the opening and from the side of the room they are closed with a casing so that there is at least 28 mm between the casing and the bottom edge of the box, so that the sashes can be removed from the hinges. In blocks with separate bindings (Fig. 5, b) this distance must be at least 10 mm. After installing and fixing the window frame, the gap between it and the wall is caulked, a sealing material, a drain, a window sill are installed.

Fig. 5. Installation of window units in openings with paired ( and) and separate bindings ( b) stone walls:

1 - caulk; 2 - wall; 3 - sealing material; 4 - platband; 5 - drain; 6 - window box; 7 - window board

Joinery delivered from the factory to construction site check for compliance with their design, and also control the quality of fit, hinge of window sashes, as well as molded products. Window blocks must be prepared for painting. The moisture content of wood in joinery should be no more than 12%.

Storage of joinery is carried out under a canopy or on the floors of a building being built. The product stacks are covered with waterproofing material.

Installation of window and door blocks

Window blocks are installed in the openings after the walls are laid and the floor is installed. Blocks weighing more than 100 kg are dropped onto the workplace by a crane. At the same time, measures are taken against damage to the products.

Openings are filled in the following sequence:

preparation of block installation sites;

preparation of blocks and fasteners for installation;

transportation of products and materials;

installation and fastening;

filling the gaps with heat-insulating material;

inserting loops;

setting of locks, handles and other hardware;

delivery of completed work.

The openings and niches in which the window blocks will be installed are cleaned of sagging and debris. With the help of a measuring tool, the correspondence of the actual dimensions of the openings and niches to the design ones is determined.

On the inner surface of the outer walls, on interior walls and partitions, marks are applied corresponding to the level of the finished floor or a mark 0.5 m above the finished floor (Fig. 6, and).

In the absence of an antiseptic coating of pastes on the outer edge of the boxes, strips of waterproofing material are attached to it with nails or mastic ( b).

Wooden wedges are prepared in advance to secure the window blocks in the openings at the rate of 8 pcs. for one opening (it is advisable to place an order at the enterprise), as well as fasteners.

Fig. 6. Technological schemes for installing window and door blocks and inserting hinges:

A - checking the dimensions of the opening, cleaning the surface and leader of the marks; b - fixing the waterproofing material to the box; c - installation of a window block (box); d - fixing the window block; d - filling the gaps with tow; e - the same polyurethane foam; g - fixing the door frame; h - insertion of hinges on the sash; 1 - cork; 2 - geodetic rod; 3 - water level; 4 - scraper; 5 - box; 6 - waterproofing material; 7 - hammer; 8 - nails; 9 - glue; 10 - plumb line; 11 - building level; 12 - metal fastening; 13 - screw; 14 - screwdriver; 15 - dry tow; 16 - window block; 17 - tow soaked in plaster solution; 18 - caulk; 19 - polyurethane foam; 20 - fishing rod; 21 - tank; 22 - compressor; 23 - door frame; 24 - handle; 25 - door hinge; 26 - sash; 27 - pencil; 28 - template; 29 - screwdriver; 30 - window hinge

The window and door blocks are installed in the opening and temporarily fixed with wooden wedges (c). Then, using a plumb line, the verticality of the box is checked in two mutually perpendicular planes, deviations from the project are eliminated by tamping wedges. The bottom of the boxes is brought out to a predetermined mark with two wedges inserted into the gap. The horizontalness of the block elements is checked by level.

The final fixing of the boxes to the walls or panels is carried out with metal fasteners or screws (g, g). The distance between fasteners or screws should not exceed 1 m.

The installation of large window blocks is carried out with a crane using a fork grip equipped with soft pads. During the installation of the blocks in the openings, they are held by braces.

The gap between the box and the structure is filled with antiseptic tow or a foamed pasty composition based on polyurethane, which, after curing, forms a semi-rigid heat-insulating material. Initially, 3/4 of the depth of the gap is poured with dry material, and the remaining 1/4 of the depth - with tow soaked in a gypsum solution of 1: 8 composition (e). In order to reduce labor costs and terms of work, it is recommended to use an installation for filling gaps with polyurethane foam (e) or cans with a ready-made composition "Macroflex", "Bostic" with a capacity of 500 and 750 ml.

From the side of the facade, the places where the window boxes adjoin the walls are filled with a sealing material and the gap is sealed from above with cement mortar.

After applying the main layers of plaster, proceed to the installation of wooden window sill boards. First, nests are prepared for inserting the ends of the window sill boards into the walls and antiseptic the lower edge, protect the ends of the board with waterproofing material. The board is led into a quarter of the window frame and two wedges are hammered from below. The upper edge of the board is given a slope into the room. After checking its position, the ends are sealed with a solution, and the gap under the board is filled with antiseptic tow or polyurethane foam.

Window units are usually delivered to objects with hung window sashes and door leaves. If the plant supplies individual parts, then at the facility they carry out a hinge of sashes and canvases with insertion of hinges. For the hinge of the window sashes, detachable, one-piece and hammer-in hinges are used. A distinctive feature of split and stitch hinges is the ability to remove the sash from the box. These hinges are available as left, right and universal.

The insertion of hinges when hinging the sashes is performed as follows. The sash is laid on the table and, using a template, mark the position of the upper and lower hinges (h). For detachable and non-detachable hinges, choose the slots with a depth equal to the thickness of the card. Loops are placed in the slots and one card is fixed with screws. For hammer-in loops, you must select the grooves in the box bar (you can use a circular saw). Then the flap with the hinges fixed on it is inserted into the box and, after checking its position, the places of the slots for the second card are marked. The sash is removed and the nests are selected in the designated places on the box. After that, the flap is inserted into the box and screws are screwed into the holes of the second card. In the same sequence, operations for hanging door leaves are performed.

The procedure for checking the correct installation of window units is shown in Fig. 7.

Fig. 7. Checking the correct installation of the window unit (a), general view of the installed window units (b) and gaps filled with polyurethane foam (c):

1 - a box with a tool; 2 - level; 3 - plumb line; 4 - polyurethane foam; - the size of the opening outside; - the same, the pier; - mark the bottom of the box

Locking devices include latches, wraps, latches, hooks, auxiliary ones - window stops.

After finishing the plastering work, the joiners walk through all the rooms and make the final fit of the window sashes. This work can be combined with the setting of locking and auxiliary devices.

Platbands are used to design the junction of window boxes to stacks and partitions.

The order of placing the platbands: determine the dimensions of the vertical and horizontal sections of the platband; parts are procured using a template; fix the prepared platband parts with nails or screws. The distance between nails and screws is 350 ... 400 mm. Platbands must be fixed to the boxes after the upholstery is finished.
If the payment procedure on the payment system website has not been completed, the money
funds from your account will NOT be debited and we will not receive confirmation of payment.
In this case, you can repeat the purchase of the document using the button on the right.

An error has occurred

The payment was not completed due to a technical error, funds from your account
were not written off. Try to wait a few minutes and repeat the payment again.

How long the best quality window will last will depend on the correct installation.

The window consists of a double-glazed window and a frame, which can be made of wood, or maybe from a metal-plastic profile. Also, in the construction of the window, shut-off valves and a system of seals are important, which ensure the adhesion of the glass unit to the frame, and also tightly connect the window sashes.

But even the best window must be installed in accordance with GOST, checked horizontally and vertically so that it does not tilt and its locking mechanism works normally, which will give a guaranteed service life. The entire window system will be in good hands if the windows are installed by the same company that sells them, and it will also undertake their warranty and post-warranty service.

Stages of installing window blocks

Correct installation of windows assumes that there must be an installation gap of 15-40 mm between the frame and the window opening, which is necessary for the possibility of changing the profile dimensions, under the influence of air temperature and humidity. But, whether the profile expands or not, its joint with the opening must remain airtight. This will be facilitated by a strong, non-crumbling opening. Therefore, preparing the opening for installation, it is required to clean it of old materials, cement, dust and dirt and strengthen it if it is not reliable enough. If the distance between the wall and window frame more than 40 mm, it must first be shortened by reducing the opening with brick, foam or wood; it will be both cheaper and more reliable than filling the space with foam.
The window unit is installed on supporting supports (plastic or wooden wedges), which determine the mounting gap along the lower edge of the profile and allow you to align the horizontal position of the unit in level.
The exposed window is attached to the window opening using concrete screws, dowel-nails with anchor plates or anchor bolts.

Using the latter, it is necessary to drill through the profile holes, passing into the wall material by 40 mm - for concrete or solid brick, 50 mm - for blocks of porous stone, or 60 mm - for building stone with slotted holes. The window takes advantage of the anchor bolts, which are not completely hammered at first, and then, when the window frame is aligned exactly horizontally and vertically, the anchors are hammered to the full length. However, the design of the anchor provides for its shift in the socket when the window frame expands without jeopardizing the tightness of the seam.

If anchor plates are used for mounting, they are supplied with mounting plates that are attached to the frame end profile. This fastening design also enables the latter to move when its geometric dimensions change.

4. A very important stage is the sealing of the joints, in accordance with GOST, which guarantees that water vapor will pass through them, and moisture will not. A pre-compressed sealing strip (PSUL) made of butyl rubber has been specially developed for this complex function. It comes in classes: premium (A), standard (B) and economy (C).

This tape is used with a gap width of up to 40 mm. If the gap is wider, a diffusion tape with similar properties can be used. Installation takes place before the installation of windows. After - there is gluing along the entire perimeter of the windows with waterproofing tape, so that one of its edges remains free. This is necessary so that the free edge of the tape can be used to close the mounting foam, which seals the gap, before installing the slope.

5. Next, double-glazed windows are inserted. They are installed on bridge pads, aligned with the center and closed with glazing beads: top, side and, then, bottom. The staples are gently pushed into place with a rubber mallet.

6. The last stage: fixing the ebb from the outside, the window sill from the inside of the room and leveling the slopes. The ebb is laid on a plentiful layer of polyurethane foam or a sound-absorbing pad, for example, Izolon. This is necessary to reduce the "drum roll" of rain on the metal.

The sill is also laid on a foam layer. If it is made of plastic, during the setting of the foam, a load must be evenly placed on its entire surface, which will prevent it from bending and contribute to the horizontal level of the surface.

Slopes can be leveled both with the help of a cement-sand mortar, which is used for ordinary brick or concrete walls, and with special plastic panels, which are usually attached to profiles fixed for plasterboard wall cladding.

Installation of window blocks in a wooden house

It is characterized by the fact that wooden walls, unlike stone ones, are exposed to atmospheric influences and change their parameters. Therefore, in order to protect the window structure from stress in the wall between it and the window frame, a "casing" is arranged - the so-called. casing or "box", which is wooden frame, inserted into the window opening, with which the window frame will be mounted.

The corners of the casing are joined with a transparent silicone sealant, the upper mounting gap is filled with mineral wool, and jute is attached to the side and bottom staplers. The box is attached to the opening with self-tapping screws. The inner window sill is attached to the casing box.

Installation of pvc window blocks is carried out using a sealed joint that will not let the cold outside and will be able to establish moisture exchange between the room and the environmentas described above.

Installation of wooden window blocks in wooden house occurs similarly to the installation of pvc profiles. Only at the end of the installation, the gap between the casing box towards the window is closed with a fillet - a finishing profile of a convex or concave shape, and towards the wall - with a casing.

Installation prices

When it is necessary to install window blocks, the installation price plays an important role. However, experts advise not to save money on installation, since the quality of the subsequent operation of windows depends on it: whether the seams will freeze, whether the windows will fog up or even "cry". A professional craftsman uses certified materials in his work - seals and sealants and gives a guarantee for his work. Some firms - up to 3 years.

To date, the cost of installing a window is about 1000 rubles. per m².

For related services, prices are approximately the following (in rubles):

installation of ebb tides (m p) - 165;
installation of window sills (m p) - 405;
installation plastic slopes (m p) - 215;
device of slopes from gypsum plasterboard (m p) - 485;
plaster window slopes width 25-30 cm - 595;
puttying of slopes on a grid for painting - 135;
painting of slopes (m p) - 85.

_______________________

The text was prepared using materials from the book by I.V. Boriskina, A.A. Plotnikova, A.V. Zakharova "Design of modern window systems for civil buildings"