Frame for pvc bathroom panels. We equip the bath with plastic panels

19.10.2018

Renovation of any premises is a rather expensive undertaking. This fully applies to the renovation of the bathroom. The average cost of repairing a square meter of a bathroom often exceeds the cost of repairing the same area in other areas of the apartment. If the bathtub urgently requires repair, but there are not enough funds for it, you can resort to wall cladding with plastic panels instead of finishing the surfaces with expensive materials, the use of which will significantly reduce costs.

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For wall decoration with plastic, unlike ceramic tiles, no special skills are required. Anyone, even a person who has never been involved in repairs, can perform such work. The work does not require special skills, but only accuracy and patience.

For wall cladding, you need some tools:

Electric drill and screwdriver;
Hacksaw or scissors;
Building level and plumb line;
Pencil and ruler.

How does bathroom renovation begin?

Before starting a bathroom renovation, you need not only to select the appropriate materials, but also to resolve the issue with plumbing, water pipes and lighting. Wall cladding with plastic panels makes it possible to hide water pipes and electrical wires under the panels. This will give the room a more sophisticated and modern look.

You can start renovating the bathroom with a slight increase in space by removing old finishing material and plaster from the walls. This is necessary so that the volume of the room does not decrease after sheathing the walls with plastic, since its installation requires a crate of a certain thickness, which will lead to a decrease in the volume of the bathroom. Removing old coatings will allow you to preserve the available area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom.

Old plaster in houses built many years ago has a sandy-lime composition. The layer thickness can exceed 1 cm or more, but it can be easily removed from the walls with a spatula or other suitable tool. The main problem during this stage of work is the large amount of dust. Therefore, when working, you need to use a respirator and securely cover the doorway so that dust does not scatter to other rooms.

If the walls are plastered with sand-cement mortar, it will be a little more difficult to remove it, but you should not neglect this stage of work in the process of repairing the bathroom. Bathrooms in most homes do not please us with excess space. In order not to reduce the volume of an already small bathroom, you will have to work a little.

In old houses, bathrooms are equipped with metal pipes. It makes no sense to hide such structures under plastic panels.

This is because:

There is a high possibility of leaks, which can only be eliminated by dismantling the panels.
Old pipes are located at some distance from the wall. To hide them, you will need to increase the thickness of the battens in order to be able to cover the water supply under the panels.

Today instead of old metal pipes install a metal-plastic flexible liner or pVC pipes, which are much easier to remove under plastic panels.

Before sheathing the walls with plastic, they carry out the wiring of electrical wires to lamps, sockets and switches. This will require special care and attention. If you do not understand electrical engineering at all, it is better to entrust this stage of work to a specialist.

Varieties of crate for plastic panels

For mounting plastic panels different types of lathing are used in the bathroom. If the wall sheathing will be done vertically, then a horizontal lathing is made and, conversely, for horizontal placement of the panels, a vertical lathing is mounted. For this, wooden slats, a metal profile or a special plastic crate are used.

Plastic panels, which will be located on the wall along which the bath is installed, are best positioned vertically. This will allow the water to drain off the wall faster. On other surfaces, plastic panels can be positioned both vertically and horizontally. Vertical stripes visually increase the height of the ceiling, while horizontal stripes expand the space.

Before installing the panels, the walls should be treated with antiseptic preparations to exclude the occurrence of mold or mildew.

Wooden lathing

For wooden lathing, slats with a section of 20x50 mm are used. To protect them from high humidity, which is inevitably present in the bathroom, the wood is impregnated with special compounds. To avoid the bending of plastic strips on the wall, the pitch of the battens should not exceed 40 cm. On concrete or brick wall the rails are fastened using special fastening brackets, the installation pitch of which is 40-50 cm. Self-tapping screws with a length of 25 mm are used for fastening.

In order for the plastic coating to create a perfectly flat surface, without bulges and deflections, you need to be very responsible when installing the battens. To do this, carefully check the horizontal and verticality of the surface using a level and a plumb line.

Metal crate

For a metal frame for plastic, a CD profile is used, which is used for wall cladding with plasterboard. The method of fixing to the wall does not differ from the previous one. The only difference is that small screws (fleas) are used to attach the profile to the bracket.

When installing an extreme rail or profile, it is not possible to attach them to the bracket from the side of the wall. Therefore, the bracket is bent in a place inaccessible for installation and fixed directly to the rail.

Plastic crate

This method of mounting plastic panels is considered the fastest and most convenient. The panels are attached to the lathing with special clips by simply snapping in. The plastic profile itself for creating a frame allows you to conveniently lay electrical wiring in it. If necessary, with this method of fastening, the panels can be easily dismantled without damaging them.

Metal or plastic frames are more costly, but at the same time, a more reliable way of mounting plastic panels. They are more resistant to high humidity and therefore more durable.

You can clearly imagine how the wall lathing and the installation of plastic panels are made by watching the video:

Wall cladding with plastic panels

The installation of plastic panels can be started immediately after installing the frame. They can be attached to a wooden crate using self-tapping screws with a flat head, a furniture stapler, or put on a special adhesive. The panels are attached to the metal profile with small self-tapping screws, and to the plastic - with clips.

It is best to start work from the corner, which is the first to catch the eye when entering the bath. This is due to the fact that only complete panels should be installed in the most visible place. First, an inner corner is mounted, into which the plastic strips will subsequently be inserted. Having securely fastened the profile, the first plastic panel is inserted into it with the left small shelf.

It is important that the panels fit snugly against each other. The right edge of the first panel is fixed in any of the selected ways and proceeds to install the next strip. The last panel in the row is mounted with extreme care, as it will have to be bent slightly in order to be inserted into the finishing profile.

When installing a heated towel rail or heating radiator in a bathroom, a heat reflector is installed between them and the plastic coating or a gap of 3-4 cm is left.This will prevent the plastic surface from heating up, prevent its deformation and discoloration under the influence of high temperatures.

Particular attention should be paid to problem areas in the bathroom. Installation of panels in the locations of pipes, sinks and other plumbing elements must be done with particular care. It is important to correctly and accurately mark up and install the crate. In this case, the adjustment of the panels must be carried out at the installation site.

The upper and lower skirting boards, which complement the interior decoration, are installed after the ceiling and floor coverings have been installed in the bathroom. When installing plastic panels under the ceiling and at floor level, 2-3 mm gaps are left for ventilation. In the future, they will be hidden under the skirting board.

Features of the choice of plastic panels for the bathroom

When purchasing panels, check the integrity of the packaging. If it is damaged, the outer panels may be scratched.
The panels must be free from defects such as waves or bulges. When purchasing material, make sure that it all belongs to one batch of goods, otherwise there may be a discrepancy between the shades of plastic.
For a bathroom, especially if its dimensions are small, it is better to choose a glossy finishing material in light colors (peach, light pink, blue, light green or golden yellow. The gloss on the panels visually increases the space.
You need to buy the material with a small margin, since accidental damage may occur during installation.
Choose panels of the length that best fit the height or width of the bathroom, so that there is as little waste as possible.
When buying, while still in the store, try to connect 2 panels together. They should fit tightly without leaving any visible gaps.

Your own designer

If you are going to decorate the walls of the bathroom yourself, you are not only acting as a master. When working, you can show your design skills by giving the room an original, unique appearance.

Hardware stores and markets offer a large selection of plastics that mimic various materials:

Wood
Marble
Ceramic tiles of various textures
Flower arrangements
Various ornaments.

Don't be afraid to take on the job of renovating and decorating your bathroom. Even high-class specialists once got their experience from scratch. The ease of installation of plastic panels will pleasantly surprise you. And a wide palette of shades and textures will bring to life the most daring design solutions and will help create a cozy atmosphere in your bathroom.

1 October, 2016
Specialization: Master in Internal and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Today I want to tell you how the ceiling lathing should be installed correctly for frame finishing with different materials. In this case, such materials can be PVC panels, MDF, wooden lining or drywall.

In fact, any of the above facings can be mounted on a similar device, made according to the same principle and even according to the same dimensions.

So, everything is in order!

Installation of crate

Stage number 1 - marking

Someone will notice that I missed such an important step as preparation, that is, removing the old coating. However, in this case, this work is optional. It will be necessary to remove the old cladding only if it openly does not hold up and falls off.

To install the lathing on the ceiling, the instruction requires you to adhere to certain parameters:

the markup begins with a control line on the walls around the perimeter of the room - it marks the depth of the ceiling cavity;
but before you mark this depth, you have to decide what kind of lighting you will have. And if these are built-in lamps, then you need to be guided precisely by their size;
so, if 40 mm depth is enough for an LED device, then for the rest you need at least 70 mm. In any case, it will be better if you purchase lamps in advance and measure the length of the recessed part. Add 10 mm for heat damping and get the depth of the ceiling cavity;
to mark a line around the perimeter, you first need to place marks in the corners using a water or laser level. Then, along them, beat off the control line with a chokline (painting cord);

now you need to mark the protocol itself. If installation is subsequently carried out under drywall, then the distance between the lines (the centers of the profiles that will be installed later) should be exactly 50 cm ;
if it is PVC or MDF panels, or wooden lining, then the step can be increased by 10 cm;
after you beat off the control lines for the CD profiles, mark the location immediately. It is at this stage that it is most convenient to determine their location;
if a chandelier is installed on the ceiling, then beat off the diagonals with a chokline, so you get the center, which will be exactly at the intersection of these lines;
for the suspended version, you can immediately make a hole and install a dowel for the hook;
and if the chandelier will be mounted with a console, then at this point determine the place to strengthen the frame.

Stage 2 - installation of UD and hangers

The entire lathing for plastic panels on the ceiling is supported by suspensions and UD profiles, which are screwed along the perimeter. Some manufacturers produce UD profiles with holes every 30 cm, and some do not.

However, it is very easy to make them yourself, for this;

mark the reference line broken off around the perimeter after 30 cm;
drill holes for dowels in the wall straight through the profile, as shown in the photo above.

For fixing UD in concrete or brick, use dowels with a diameter of 60 mm and self-tapping screws 50-70 mm long. If there is loose plaster on the walls, then the length of the screw increases to 90 mm (the dowel is the same). But if the walls are made of limestone or foam blocks, then 50 mm self-tapping screws without dowels at all are enough.

After the udshki have been screwed to the wall, you can proceed to fixing the suspensions. Most often, perforated tape hangers are used for this, so we will focus on them (for deeper ceilings, wire hangers are used).

At first, you just need to distribute them over the rough ceiling by screwing them with screws and dowels. Note that you need to screw them on with your own hands, and do not use shock dowels.

Pay attention to the top photo, which shows two fixing options - correct and incorrect, so do not be mistaken in such situations.

The distance between the suspensions should be no more than 60-70 cm. But if the ceiling implies a plasterboard finish for facing with ceramic tiles, then the distance, of course, is reduced to 40-50 cm, and the profiles are installed more often.

When fixing the suspension, try so that the oblong hole, which is in the center of the tape, lies on the reference line exactly with its middle (for this it was done). Do not rush to bend your ears down yet - do it after inserting the CD profiles into the UD.

Stage 3 - installation of CD profiles

Now you need to cut the CD profiles to length and insert them into the UD. To do this, measure the distance from wall to wall and subtract 5 mm - this will be the appropriate length of the profile. Measure each CD, as there may be errors on the wall, and immediately insert it into the UD until you have assembled all the crate.

If you look closely at the top photo, you will see a blue nylon thread stretched across the profiles. It is needed for leveling and it is tightened by screwing it with self-tapping screws ("fleas") to the udeshki.

But unsecured tsedeshki will sag and pull the thread, so you need to pull all the profiles just above the level. To do this, simply fold the ears of the middle suspension under each of them.

First, you should set the extreme profiles in level relative to the perimeter, they should turn out half a millimeter above the thread, since touching will lead to a plane failure. Then gradually (you can start from anywhere) align the rest of the tsedeshki, but also raise them half a millimeter above the thread so that they do not pull it off and knock the level down.

It is advisable to fasten each ear of the suspension with two "fleas" - this will ensure the rigidity of the attachment, and the frame will not rattle. That is, there will be no backlash of the profile in the bracket (when hitting the ceiling with a fist, the backlash causes a rattling sound).

Note. To assemble metal frames from a galvanized profile, small self-tapping screws for metal with a length of 9-11 mm are used - in everyday life they are usually called fleas. Their tip can be in the form of a drill or a pointed cone.

Other options

Also, for covering the ceiling with plasterboard, a cellular lathing can be used, as in the top photo - the cell size here is 60 × 60 cm (in the center of the profile). But this option is not popular with professional finishers:

firstly, the cell size does not fit the parameters of the ceiling gypsum board (1200 × 2500 mm);
and, secondly, more material will be needed here, therefore, the total cost of the arrangement will be an order of magnitude higher.

Sometimes the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, and the length of the CD, which can be either 3m or 4m, will not be enough. In such cases, the profiles are built up using special connecting inserts, as shown in the top photo.

But in such situations, on both sides of the joint it is installed along the suspension and the fixing "fleas" pass through the profile and the insert at the same time.

In addition, the lathing under the PVC panels on the ceiling may not be metal, but wooden, as shown in the top photo. Here, in fact, a rail of any section can be used, but, as a rule, 20-25 mm with a width of 40-50 mm are used.

thanks!

When it comes to choosing finishes for the bathroom, the classic option immediately comes to mind - ceramic tiles.

Indeed, thanks to such qualities as moisture resistance, strength and durability, this material has gained well-deserved popularity among buyers.

At the same time, more and more types of finishes appear on the market, which are in no way inferior to the usual options.

Benefits

The bathroom is a small room, there are many communications in it, and there is always high humidity in the air. Here are the main factors to consider when choosing a finishing material. PVC panels fully meet these criteria.

Let's take a closer look at their benefits:

If you don’t want to shell out a fortune to buy ceramic tiles and pay for the services of a styler, PVC sheets can be a great alternative.

What should you pay attention to when choosing?

On the market finishing materials there is a wide selection of PVC panels. Here's what to look for when buying:

Tip: buy sheets from the same batch, so you save yourself from differences in color shades of different batches.

What tools and materials might you need?

As we have already noted, it is easy to do the installation of panels with your own hands. Installation of PVC sheets for walls is done in two main ways: fastening to the lathing or to liquid nails.

Here are the tools you need to do this:

Hacksaw or jigsaw;
Perforator or drill;
Roulette;
Construction stapler;
Level;
Screwdriver;
Liquid nails, if you choose this installation method.

To calculate the material, you need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Then we find out the area of \u200b\u200bthe board by multiplying the width by the length. To find out the number of boards, you need to divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe room by the area of \u200b\u200bthe panel.

This is easy to do: for example, the width of a standard sheet is 25 centimeters. If your room perimeter is 8 meters, you will need 32 panels. Take 3-4 more boards to hedge yourself.

When the materials are purchased, the tools are prepared, you can proceed to the next stage.

The amount of preparatory work depends on the method of installation of the wall panels that you have chosen.

If you are going to glue the sheets on liquid nails, you need to level the surface and treat with an anti-fungal primer.

But most likely you will have to do the plasterboard wall cladding.

If you mount it on a crate, it is enough to get rid of the old finish and free the room from unnecessary things.

Features of the installation work

First, you need to choose the material of the lathing. Bath - a room with a constantly high level of humidity. Therefore, we advise you to choose not a wooden version, but a plastic or metal crate. Indeed, under the influence of water and temperature, over time, wood can not only become a breeding ground for fungus, but also swell, crack - which will disrupt the entire structure.

When installing the lathing on the walls, you must adhere to the following rules:

If you missed the stage of leveling the walls, use a level that will make it possible to correctly mount the crate;
The slats are attached at a distance of 50 cm from each other;
The slats are located perpendicular to the PVC panels.

Please note: when attaching the slats to the ceiling, the step should be 30-40 cm.

After the crate is ready, you can directly proceed to fixing the boards. Editing usually starts at the corner that is most striking.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

The so-called "starting" profile is being installed;
A panel fixing stick is inserted into the lower corner;
The sheet is attached to the crate with a stapler or screws;
Installation of all other panels is carried out in the same way;
At the final stage, the skirting boards are installed, which will hide all the gaps.

Pay attention: in the places of doorways and windows, correctly install the panels using the starting corner.

If, nevertheless, imperfections appear in the form of gaps between the panels, be sure to seal them with a sealant. You can choose the mounting method - vertical or horizontal, but we recommend vertical.

This will not only allow drops of water to drain freely, but also visually enlarge the room. As you can see, do-it-yourself installation of panels is not only easy, but also fast.

Cost of materials

The price of the material depends on the size of the panel. The most common:

In length they are: 2700 mm, 3000 mm, 6000 mm;
The width is 250mm or 375mm;
Thickness 8, 10 mm.

A standard panel with a width of 2700X250 mm costs from 130 rubles. per sq. m.

For products with thermal printing, you will have to pay 15% more.

Tip # 1: choose the right width of the product - if the room is small, standard panels will do;
Tip # 2: wide boards (over 25 cm) are convenient to use on the ceiling.

As we have already noted, the installation of panels on the walls can be done by hand. Let's calculate how much we can save on the services of a master. This is easy to do: if you take the average price for 1 sq. m. about 350 rubles., then finishing an ordinary bathtub 1.5X2.5 m. will cost about 6000 rubles.

Using PVC panels for decorating the walls of the bathroom, you can achieve not only high rates of aesthetics and practicality, but also decently save money.

A lot of materials for interior decoration, which are presented in the assortment of building stores, suggest their installation on a pre-prepared crate. If you do not want to invite a construction team, then do-it-yourself crate is performed. This is not a particularly difficult process, however, a couple of significant points should be taken into account for any type of lathing, without which the final result of the cladding will be of poor quality or short-lived.

There are a number of possible lathing constructions and options for how to make it for walls, ceilings and floors. First, we will discuss the materials used to form the lathing, and then consider already different ways its construction with indications of all the nuances.

The choice of material for intra-apartment lathing

wooden and metal lathing

The type of material can be formed:

Wooden lathing;
From a galvanized profile;
Plastic crate.

Metal

In modern construction as the main material for the formation of the lathing for internal works most often a galvanized profile is used, which was originally invented for fastening drywall. At the same time, a U-shaped profile with various sizes and shapes is used for various target placements. A UD profile is used to form the perimeter. A CD-profile is inserted into it with its end, of which the crate actually consists.

Several other types of profiles are used mainly for the formation of partitions and walls, so that the lathing is not useful in the arrangement. In addition, there is a number of fasteners and accessories for mounting profiles and their connection, which greatly facilitates the assembly of battens of any complexity and shape.

Wood

The time-tested material is, of course, wood, especially since the average cost of a lathing made of wood is significantly lower than that of a galvanized profile. Used beams and boards with sizes ranging from 25-50 mm. For interior work, it is best to choose the minimum allowable size that will reliably fix the cladding material, and will not deform under the influence of its weight or the external environment.

Wood is a fairly malleable material from which you can build a crate for a variety of purposes. However, there are a number of limitations and features that somewhat reduce its value as a material for lathing. First of all, this is exposure to moisture, as well as its low fire safety. These shortcomings can be significantly reduced using special impregnations. However, the risks cannot be completely eliminated.

wooden lathing with ordinary construction foam

Plastic

In most cases, plastic profiles for lathing are made for a specific type of sheathing, and the methods of their installation can be strikingly different. It is necessary to clarify the features of their installation in the instructions from the manufacturer.

General structure of the lathing

To create a lathing in general it is necessary to mount the frame around the perimeter of each sheathed surface. He is taken to the required level. After that, intermediate elements are placed at a distance that is necessary to secure the skin elements. This is very important pointin which errors are not allowed.

For fixing drywall sheets the distance of the lathing elements should be half the width of the sheet. In this case, the distance itself is considered from the middle of one cross member to the middle of the other. Only in this case it will be possible to normally fix the sheets joint to joint.

For cladding with PVC, aluminum or wood panels you can limit yourself to a distance equal to the length of the elements or place one or two more supporting elements of the batten in the middle between them. For the ceiling, it is better to take a smaller distance between the beams or profiles (450-600 mm) so that the cladding elements do not sag.

Type 3: plastic crate

These are specialized plastic profiles for. Their installation is carried out most often on a prepared flat surface and according to the installation instructions for the type of cladding used. In general, the lathing elements are supporting corners for forming the perimeter and special fastening profiles, which are fixed with dowels and screws to the wall perpendicular to the direction of the sheathing elements.

Recently, the use of plastic panels has become a fashionable trend among approaches to decorating ceilings with finishing materials. This design is very popular due to its ease of installation, availability of materials and excellent results, however, the most difficult installation is the frame for the ceiling made of plastic panels.

Profile for a ceiling made of plastic panels

PVC panels are widely used in the world of building finishing materials. Increasingly, when repairing ceilings in the bathroom, they use standard finishing mixtures, namely PVC panels.

Why do they deserve such attention and are so popular:

Plastic panels are an affordable material, this is the most budgetary option for finishing the ceiling;
Installation of such panels does not require special skills and abilities;
There is no need to prepare the ceiling surface, since PVC panels are able to close all irregularities and defects;
They are made of environmentally friendly materials, odorless, which makes their use in apartment buildings safe for health.

As you can see, the plastic ceiling is a very advantageous interior design. Plastic panels have a number of positive properties, which also adds advantages in favor of their use: they are moisture resistant, not exposed to sunlight and light, easy to clean, easy to install.

The most difficult and crucial moment when installing such panels is the installation of a profile for the ceiling. After all, a plastic ceiling is a suspended ceiling that is fully attached to a metal profile created and fixed to the ceiling.

Assembling a ceiling profile takes a lot of time and requires utmost care. Installation of the profile is an attachment around the perimeter, and then over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom or any other room, with aluminum rails, onto which the plastic panels will then be attached using self-tapping screws.

Ceiling frame for plastic panels

The creation of a frame for the ceiling is the main and most important stage in the installation of a plastic ceiling.

Before starting to install the frame, you need to purchase basic materials and prepare tools:

These are the aluminum rails themselves,
Self-tapping screws,
Hacksaw for metal,
Perforator,
Screwdriver.

The installation of the frame begins with a thorough marking. A distance of 10 cm recedes down from the ceiling - this is necessary for the further installation of spotlights and the laying of electrical wiring and other necessary communications. The profile is installed along the entire perimeter of the surface, fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws. The installation of the profile for plastic panels must be very neat and stable enough, since this profile will then hold the entire ceiling on itself.

How to make a crate for plastic panels on the ceiling

Installation of a profile for plastic panels on the ceiling is the construction of a kind of lattice on which the rest of the materials are attached. The lathing for plastic panels is made from the same aluminum profiles as the main frame.

How to make a crate for the ceiling:

The main guides are attached along the entire perimeter, creating the main frame of the ceiling; the most commonly used profile for drywall.
The resulting rectangle is filled with additional guides inside - they are installed at a certain distance from each other on standard hangers or wooden beams.
When installing suspensions, the distance between them should be no more than 60 cm.
In addition to metal guides, you can also use wooden blocks - the quality will remain the same. Most often, wooden lathing is used on the balcony when sheathing the ceiling with clapboard.

Before starting the installation, using a level, you need to clearly measure the height so that it is the same along the entire perimeter. In the middle of the rectangle obtained during the installation of the frame, the height is also leveled. To do this, you can use the tension of the nylon thread. It is very important to keep the distance when installing the frame in order to avoid unevenness during further installation of the panels.

Installation of the main guides, as a rule, is carried out along a wall with a window so that the seams are not so visible. The bearing profiles of the frame should be installed strictly perpendicular to the plastic panels.

Ceiling lathing for plastic panels

The installation of lathing on the ceiling for the further installation of plastic panels is a serious and crucial stage. To give strength to the structure and to avoid bending it when installing the panels themselves on the ceiling, the main guides are attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or dowels. The distance from the main ceiling is also important here - the type of fastening depends on this: with a small distance, the profile is attached to metal suspensions, if the distance is significant, then special suspensions with knitting needles are used.

If necessary, additional fasteners are made from the profile strips L-shaped - the smaller part is attached directly to the ceiling, while the longer part is attached to the side surface of the profile. This creates additional support. After completing the collection of the frame and lathing, all the necessary work on electrical wiring and installation of spotlights is carried out. It will be difficult to do this in the future.

Besides metal profile and guides to create a lathing on the ceiling, you can use wooden beams and a plastic profile:

Wooden lathing is used in rooms protected from moisture, plastic profile - in small rooms.
In terms of the installation method, such frames are no different from metal ones.
With a perfectly flat surface, plastic panels can be attached directly to the ceiling without using a frame. Such a ceiling will last for a long time, however, it will not be possible to install spotlights - only a chandelier.

Installation of ceiling lathing under plastic panels (video)

So, the use of plastic panels for decoration modern interiors is gaining in popularity. Simplicity and ease of installation, availability and variety of finishing materials make this method of finishing the ceiling very successful and promising. The result of decorating a room with plastic panels largely depends on the correct installation of a frame made of metal guides. At the same time, it is very important to ensure that the rails are evenly mounted to the ceiling. Observing the simple rules for installing the necessary materials, you can turn the repair of the ceiling into an exciting activity, the result of which will not hesitate to please you.

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